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Routes in Pocket Rocks

A day in the life of Rommstein S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Al Takes a Ride S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Carnivorous Bitch S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chip's Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crunch Boy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Double Cacti Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Flake And Bake S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
It's Electrifying S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Love Pinnacle, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Love Route, The S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Master Blaster S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Mini- Houser Buttress S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mustache Mayhem S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pocket Route S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Renacuajo S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Route "O" TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sabie's Eight S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Shorty's Nightmare S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Surmounting The Sumo S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Utah Claw S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 30 ft
FA: Bob Draney and Katie Draney
Page Views: 1,011 total, 10/month
Shared By: Darren Knezek on May 18, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

I thought that this climb had a lot going for it.

A fairly easy start leads to classic Pocket Rocks pocket-pulling. There are a few cruxes in the first half, but they are easy to figure out and execute.

About halfway up the angle steepens and the rock gets more condense. You get to grab a mono, that's right a mono on a 5.10a, turn it, and do a long reach to a good little jug.

It's not over yet, the pump could start to creep up on a climber, and the ending could be a small fight to get to a clipping jug for the chains.

The bolts seemed to be perfectly spaced with no, crap your pants, sections.

Location

A little over halfway across Pocket Rocks, this is on a small south-facing spire-like formation. And at the moment, it is the 4th route from the left side of the crag.

Protection

5 bolts and anchors.

Photos

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