Shorty's Nightmare
5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 1.8 from 5 votes
Type: | Sport, 40 ft (12 m) |
FA: | Dan Mullens |
Page Views: | 948 total · 5/month |
Shared By: | Darren Knezek on May 17, 2009 |
Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Description
This climb doesn't get any stars in the guidebook and also states that it would be a nightmare to fall before the second bolt. I would disagree with both.
If the rock were a little more solid near the first bolt, then I would give it even another star.
The start is pretty casual and leads to a long, but not too hard pull, to get to the second bolt.
Getting to the third bolt is one of the funniest moves on the entire climb. A dynamic move off a small crimper/pocket to a jug pocket.
The whole climb is quite steep and the feet are poor when you near the anchors which are quite a thrill to clip if you're pumped.
If the rock were a little more solid near the first bolt, then I would give it even another star.
The start is pretty casual and leads to a long, but not too hard pull, to get to the second bolt.
Getting to the third bolt is one of the funniest moves on the entire climb. A dynamic move off a small crimper/pocket to a jug pocket.
The whole climb is quite steep and the feet are poor when you near the anchors which are quite a thrill to clip if you're pumped.
2 Comments