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Leap of Faith

5.11, Trad, Sport, 80 ft (24 m),  Avg: 2.9 from 24 votes
FA: unknown
Washington > Central-E Casca… > Leavenworth > Icicle Creek > Snow Creek Area > Pearly Gates
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Description

Entering the crack and moving past the bulge makes up the crux with easier climbing directly above, which soon turns more difficult and ends with a thin bolted slab move to the chains.

Location

An obvious bouldery finger to hands crack to the left of Easy Pickins and right of Pearly Gates.

Protection

Pro to 2, mostly smaller.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Jplotz
Cashmere, WA
  5.11c/d
[Hide Comment] I always chuckle when I see a pile of rocks at the base of this crack. Even cheating, this bouldery start is difficult! Think 5.11a or b is fair. Very height dependent. Grounding out is easy if you blow the continuous crux moves, even on top rope. The starting crack also loves to shred rope sheaths if you top rope it, so be forewarned. Sep 18, 2015
Rafe
  5.10d
[Hide Comment] Yeah it's definitely not over when you're off the ground. The rock pile could help get you started in the crack if you can't reach it, but you've got some moves to do after that.

10.d is a funny grade. I wouldn't argue with .10d, but I'd also agree on your .11- Sep 20, 2015
Jplotz
Cashmere, WA
  5.11c/d
[Hide Comment] I climbed this last weekend, or at least attempted to. Since the right foothold has broken off for the initial overhanging move, the start is virtually untouchable! Even with my long reach, I still needed to use a rock assist. I can say unequivocally that it 5.11+ now. Harder if you're shorter. May 31, 2017
Ales Kobrle
Seattle
  5.11a/b
[Hide Comment] Short boulder on the beginning. Definitely much harder or (impossible) for short people. Tape your hands since crack have very sharp crystals ready to take your skin off :-). After that it getting easy fast with some delicate slab moves on the top.
If you will place gear for entering boulder (I'm sure you will :-), you will ended up with rope getting stuck in the crack and deal with horrible rope drag later up. After you pass crux and place gear above steep section, unclip lower peace if you can reach it or once you get a good position let your belayer to unclip it to save you from later troubles on slab moves.
Not much fun rout overall, since is it just boulder problem. Jun 24, 2019
James M
Spokane, WA
  5.11
[Hide Comment] I'd characterize this route as a nasty boulder problem into an enjoyable 10d route. If you can get through the moves off the ground (a good challenge) the rest of the route high quality.

The moves off the ground for me involved a mossy, wet finger lock (super hard/impossible to gain if short) and some HORRIBLE feet, cranking into a hand jam that absolutely shredded the skin off the back of my hand. I'd applaud anyone who can do these moves sans tape and emerge unscathed; my hands are still healing a couple days later. May 8, 2023