PRINT: Rock Climb Soft in the Middle, Gallatin Canyon

Soft in the Middle

5.11c, Trad, Sport, 70 ft (21 m),

Avg: 3.6 from 79 votes
FA: Bill Dockins, Kristen Drumheller, Summer 1992
Montana > Southwest Region > Gallatin Canyon > W Side > Gallatin Tower

Description

Fun pumpy 5.10 with a stout crimp crux right in the middle. After placing a nut above the first bolt traverse slightly left then follow the bolt line to the chains. The bolt line that goes up and right from the nut is "Top Heavy."

Location

Right side of the Bowling Ball wall (south side of the Tower). First bolt is about 25' up.

Protection

#1 camalot before the first bolt, medium nut after the first bolt, quickdraws. Chain anchor.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Nick Stayner near the crux. Ryan Minton photo.

Starting the crux

whipper

Is this Soft in the Middle?

Soft in the Middle.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

kozzybear406
Livingston, MT

5.11c

The big jug near the top flexes, so be wary. Nov 18, 2012

Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA

The "Tombstone," sounds like a job for Fix-it-Quick. Feb 4, 2013

Joshua Schuler
Bozeman

5.11b

The tombstone is still holding on "strong", it's still good for resting on, but it's certainly a little unnerving. Jun 7, 2020

Joe Wagner

5.11c

This has 2 almost completely separate ways of climbing the crux, both seem like 11c Jul 27, 2021

Ryan Minton
Leavenworth, WA

5.11c

Having returned to this route recently after climbing it many times in years past, it seems as though the tombstone is getting quite a bit looser. It seemed alright as a foothold but yarding on it pumped out of one’s mind might not deliver the best outcome. Perhaps it would benefit from being removed? I don’t think it would affect the difficulty much.

This is otherwise an outstanding pitch and one of my favorites in the canyon. There is currently a fixed nut between bolts 1 and 2 that is in good shape. #1 camalot down low protects the overlap. Sep 18, 2021