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Chariots of Fire

5.11d, Trad, 170 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II,  Avg: 3.5 from 4 votes
FA: KC Baum
Colorado > Grand Junction… > Unaweep Canyon > Main Canyon: Un… > Quarry Wall Com… > Central Quarry Wall

Description

Probably the steepest crack in the canyon! Chariots of Fire is the splitter immediately right of Sidewinder. In fact, halfway or so up the first pitch it is possible to move left to a good rest on Sidewinder. The first crux, for me at least, was trying to get back into the Chariots' crack after this rest. Steep bouldery moves protected by small, sparse pro lead to another rest before the second crux: slightly overhanging, thin hands/rattly fingers. An amazing line and a proud tick for sure.

The second pitch is not nearly as classic and most parties will be satisfied to rap off the chains after pitch 1. To finish, climb straight up off the belay, gain a juggy flake traverse out right, then make 5.8 moves without pro around an arete to the right.

To descend from the top, rap Moon Shadow, 10 ft to the left. 200ft.

Location

Locate Moon Shadow and Sidewinder. This climbs ascends the next crack to the right of Sidewinder. The classic, thin hands splitter at the top of the first pitch will be obvious from the ground.

Protection

Many in the very small to medium size. Nothing bigger than a #2 Camalot is needed.

There is a two pin anchor at the top of the first pitch. Two ropes will get you down.