Mountain Project Logo

Routes in La Vieja

Del Frente T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sudafricana T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 260 ft, 2 pitches
FA: P. Friedrich and W. Lion 2/80
Page Views: 1,386 total, 13/month
Shared By: Paul S on May 15, 2009
Admins: Tony Yeary, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra

You & This Route


15 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Two amazing long exposed pitches of sustained climbing on perfect rock to a spectacular summit pretty much sums up this climb. This was one of the better easy/moderate climbs that I've ever done.

P1: Start on the left hand side of the northeast face with some easier climbing. This eventually leads to a nice crack. After about 120' traverse right (#3 camalot for protection) to another crack which leads to a bolted anchor. This is nearly a full 60m pitch.

P2: Make a few tricky moves out right past a few bolts then continue to the top by climbing both sides of the arete with the occasional bolt. There is a nice bolted anchor just below the summit.

I believe you can make it down in 2 double rope raps down the route. When we climbed this, we were freezing and opted to rappel off the opposite side (in the sun) which was just 1 double rope rap to the ground, but the anchor was a consisted of old pitons rather than nice big bolts and you have to walk a steep slope back to your gear. I'd recommend doing several raps down the route.

Location

Starts on the left end of the northeast face after a short easy scramble.

Protection

Two sets of cams up to a #3 camalot with a set of nuts. 2 60m ropes.

Photos

Emmett Lyman
Somerville, MA
 
Emmett Lyman   Somerville, MA
 
There's a long runout after reaching the arete on P2, but keep your head together and remember that the crux is behind you. We met friends at the summit and did 2 double rope raps down the face to the ground. Jan 11, 2017
Ryan Huetter
Mammoth Lakes, CA
Ryan Huetter   Mammoth Lakes, CA
You can rap the face with a single 60m. Oct 14, 2010