Type: Trad, 260 ft (79 m), 2 pitches
GPS: -41.20355, -71.4986
FA: P. Friedrich and W. Lion 2/80
Page Views: 2,537 total · 13/month
Shared By: Paul S on May 15, 2009
Admins: Mauricio Herrera Cuadra

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Two amazing long exposed pitches of sustained climbing on perfect rock to a spectacular summit pretty much sums up this climb. This was one of the better easy/moderate climbs that I've ever done.

P1: Start on the left hand side of the northeast face with some easier climbing. This eventually leads to a nice crack. After about 120' traverse right (#3 camalot for protection) to another crack which leads to a bolted anchor. This is nearly a full 60m pitch.

P2: Make a few tricky moves out right past a few bolts then continue to the top by climbing both sides of the arete with the occasional bolt. There is a nice bolted anchor just below the summit.

I believe you can make it down in 2 double rope raps down the route. When we climbed this, we were freezing and opted to rappel off the opposite side (in the sun) which was just 1 double rope rap to the ground, but the anchor was a consisted of old pitons rather than nice big bolts and you have to walk a steep slope back to your gear. I'd recommend doing several raps down the route.

Location Suggest change

Starts on the left end of the northeast face after a short easy scramble.

Protection Suggest change

Two sets of cams up to a #3 camalot with a set of nuts. 2 60m ropes.

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