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Routes in Aguja M2

Dedos Empastados T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Del Diedro T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Socotroco T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: M. Gonzalez and friends 2/79
Page Views: 1,606 total · 14/month
Shared By: Paul S on May 14, 2009
Admins: Tony Yeary, Camster (Rhymes with Hamster), Mauricio Herrera Cuadra

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33 Opinions

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Description

This is one of the more popular climbs at Frey due to its proximity to the refugio, the difficulty, amazing summit, and quality climbing.

Face climb up and slightly to the left to a short crack that leads into the left facing dihedral that can barely be seen from the start of the climb. Follow this to the top. There is a bolted anchor about 5m below the needled summit and its about a 25m rap back to the ground.

Location

The routes starts on the left end of the pedestal on the west face, just left of Socotroco.

Protection

Single set of cams plus a set of nuts should do the trick.

Photos

chipacles
  5.9 PG13
chipacles  
  5.9 PG13
Did this Dec 2013. Fantastic climb. BETA ALERT: The beginning is a little spicy: the climbing is not too hard, but there is little pro. I got a stopper in off the belay, then slung a nice flake. You have to pull into the dihedral before you get more gear, so without the slung flake, you are looking at a nasty deck fall. I recommend a nice thick nylon runner for slinging the flake. Once in the dihedral, it's a great route on quality stone. Jan 25, 2014
Emmett Lyman
Somerville, MA
 
Emmett Lyman   Somerville, MA
 
Great, great climb. Second chipacles advice to protect the start with a slung flake. Especially if there's a party climbing Socotroco, as the two routes are very close and someone on Socotroco could potentially fall on your ropes or belayer. Found this climb to be easier than other Frey 5+ cruxes (P2 of Sifuentes-Weber) and less heady than others (P2 of Del Frente). Quite casual for the Frey grade with no distinctive crux. Jan 11, 2017

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