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Routes in Lower Wall

Ballerina (aka NoName 6), The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bearded Outlaw S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Calico S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cave Route aka NoName 01, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Five O'Clock Shadow S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Graybeard (aka NoName 1) S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Harvey, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
He's an Angry Elf S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b V6 7A
Jungle Monkey S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Moral Decay (aka NoName 4) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
NoName 6.7 S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Original Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pass the Ditchie S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Primadona (aka NoName 6.3) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Road Runner S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Roadside Attraction (aka NoName 5) S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Roadside Distraction (aka NoName 5.1) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shark's Tooth (aka NoName 02) S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Short Sport in the Short Fort S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b V2-3 5+
Spinefish (aka NoName 7) S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Squeeze, The S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Stay True (aka NoName 3) S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Test, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Traditional Values S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Twister S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Two Tone S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unknown 5.Easy S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Yellico Groove S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 20 ft
FA: Evan Winn and Megan Cerise
Page Views: 981 total, 9/month
Shared By: Michael Schneiter on May 14, 2009
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is a short, little climb with great stone. The hardest climbing is right off the ground, and this is tightly bolted (every 4 feet), making it a good route for a kid to do their first lead on. There is also a second "pitch" to this. It is a low angle slab with three bolts that is 3rd class and about 25 feet.

Location

On the far right side of the Puoux, hike another 10 yards right of NoName 01 to find this route in a gully where you can tell this is an old watercourse. It's easiest to approach by staying low and going through the trees below NoName 02.

Protection

5 bolts to ring anchors.

Photos

Evan Winn  
 
The first ascent is Evan Winn and Megan Cerise. I saw this little route as a good way to access Calico and Twister and a non threatening place to teach multi pitch techniques. There are rings just above the lip and then rings at the very top of the rock where the dirt starts again. It is really just a way to climb in and rap out of the wash without scrambling through the eroding hillside. May 18, 2009
Michael Schneiter
Glenwood Springs, CO
 
Michael Schneiter   Glenwood Springs, CO
 
Someone can correct me on the rating on this. All I can say is it was really easy (free soloed it in my approach shoes).

There are also two short bolted lines another 20 yards to the right and uphill of this route. They are both 3 bolts and about 20 feet tall and climb in a little overhang feature.. I have heard them described as one star routes but haven't climbed them myself. May 14, 2009