PRINT: Rock Climb Friendship Route, Red Rocks

Friendship Route

5.9, Trad, 150 ft (45 m), 2 pitches,

Avg: 2.4 from 28 votes
FA: Joe Herbst and company, Fall 1976
Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rocks > First Creek Canyon > Alcohol Wall

Access Issue: IMPORTANT notes on Wet Rock and Human Waste Details

WET ROCK: The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS DURING OR AFTER RAIN. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery bone-dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.

HUMAN WASTE: Human waste is a major issue plaguing the area. The Southern Nevada Climbers Coalition (SNCC) works to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations: Black Velvet Canyon, The Hamlet, Kraft Mountain Area, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor. These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out. Consider bringing one to be part of your daily kit no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly. Do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas.

See https://www.southernnevadaclimbers.org/wag-bags for more information on the program.

Description

Friendship Route is the rightmost corner on the Alcohol Wall.

P1 (110 feet, 5.8) Follow the corner to a two bolt anchor. The wide crack looks low angle, but is actually a little awkward.

P2 (40 feet, 5.9) Continue up the corner, stemming on balls, past a bolt. Belay on the massive ledge from a bush.

Walk east on the ledge and rappel with two ropes from the two bolt anchor atop Rob Roy.

Protection

Rack up to 7".

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Brett swims up Friendship Route p1.

Friendship Route p2.

Friendship Route p1.

Friendship Route

Friendship Route. Belays marked.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

John Hegyes
Las Vegas, NV

5.9

Pretty stout for 5.9 climbing. A #6 Camalot was definitely helpful for the wide section.

Also, it's important to note that the route can certainly be climbed in a single pitch. The crux however is immediately off the p1 anchor so we opted not to link the pitches so that close visual contact could be made at the crux. May 14, 2009

Tradiban

5.9

Old school cool route! If you don't have a large cam you can gun for a narrow spot ~12ft after starting the wide crack. There I got a bomber Met #9 Powercam and then gunned for the chains. Secure, if you are ok with off-width technique.

We skipped the second pitch, it looked uninviting and dirty. We also put some new quicklinks and webbing on the P1 anchor. Enjoy! Mar 11, 2011

Vince Neil

Always a great adventure on a Herbst route. Only did the first pitch but definitely coming back to do the second! From the first pitch anchors the second pitch actually looked like quality climbing...like the lotta balls crux pitch but stouter. If your sketching on the first pitch wide crack you can always walk a #6 up the cruxy sections....but it's not too bad if you just jam whatever part of your body fits in that thing and just heave upward...at one point I had a pretty good head-jam. Quality climbing overall. PS. Thanks for the quicklinks and new webbing on the 1st pitch anchor it really needed it. Solid. Apr 13, 2012

Kit Cass
Carlsbad, CA

So cool! Plus you can TR Mai Tai if you don't own (5) 00's!

It was sketchy, but I think if you feel comfortable in the offwidth section you can do it with one #3 and one #4, plus another #3 before entering it.

Last pitch is cool, but short. Look for the rap rings on a bush to your right, NOT the ones to the left that is the top of Rob Roy! (mistakes were made) Only need 1 70M to do it this way. Mar 31, 2019

William Thiry
Las Vegas

5.9+

Excellent route with highly technical stemming up the wide crack (more fun than off-width style, but less secure). Stout for a 5.9, but not 5.10. A #6 cam or two will make this even more fun. May 27, 2020