Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Chuck Grossman, Chris Begue, and friend, 1982
Page Views: 12,757 total · 109/month
Shared By: ChadARobinson on May 12, 2009
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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This is the obvious, splitter crack across the gully from S-Crack. Climb tight hands to perfect big hands (#3 Camalot) to a funky pod (crux). It is slightly overhanging for most of the way. Excellent.


This is across the gully from S-Crack. It is easy to see from the parking area.


#1s, #2s and #3s (Camalots). Maybe a #4 just below the pod.
Allen Hill
FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
Allen Hill   FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
FA Chuck Grossman. Aug 18, 2009

Pretty wild that the FA (according to Desert Rock, which may be inaccurate) was 1983, when 'Rusty's Cave', just to the L went up in '78. DR says descent is "walk left", but that would be pretty daunting. You might be able to head to the right and finish up 'Pair o' Grins', but I am not certain. Apr 5, 2010
First ascent was in 1982, done by the awesome Chuck Grossman, Chris Begue, and a friend from Phili whose name is forgotten. There was a killer, loose block in the wide section whick may have been a factor to the lateness of the first ascent or just the remoteness of the area. Back then most of the cracks were unclimbed and ripe for first ascents by the likes of Robert Filmore, John Hulett, Dave Henritze. Jun 16, 2010

Thanks for the info, Chris! Jun 16, 2010
This thing is a clinic on cupped hands at least for me anyway. Dec 1, 2010
Ryan N
Bellingham, WA
Ryan N   Bellingham, WA
Climbed this last week and I have a few pointers for finding it.

The beta says find the obvious splitter across from S Crack as viewed from the parking lot. You definitely cannot see it from the parking lot. It's on the far left of the buttress, which from the parking lot looks like it's separate. If you hike the wash from the left of the parking lot, it will gradually come into view. You will probably notice s crack on the right first, that's when you head up the hill on the left. The climb is great, bring 1, 2, 3, and 4, use face holds when you get to the pod. The chain anchor is above ledge on right. Aug 22, 2012
saint george area
javi   saint george area
I felt the crack up higher was challenging #2 BDs were mostly undercammed #3 BDs were mostly overcammed till right near the pod. Friends may be better on this climb.... I also used a BD #5 in the bottom of the pod.... Three stars because of the choss bottom and funky size. Might be awesome for someone with XL or XS hands
(if you plan on TR this bring a 20' cordelette loop to extend anchor). Sep 3, 2012
Anus Herder
Colona, CO
Anus Herder   Colona, CO
A 60m rope js long enough to rap from the anchors, got us down easy from the bolts. Did use 20' of cordelette for the TR over the ledge, perfect! May 15, 2016
Adam Block
Colorado Springs, CO
Adam Block   Colorado Springs, CO
Met a dude that scared me into thinking this thing needed 4 #2s and 5 #3s. This isn't some mega long creek line and you only need a BD #1,2,3,4,3 in that order. The crack eats 3s (Big hands will cruise this line!) just save one for the top. Also an awesome left armbar rest before the crux!!! Oct 10, 2017
3 #2s and 3 #3s will sew up the middle part of this route very well. Experienced leaders can probably make do with less. A #5 fits very nicely at the bottom of the OW pod, and a single #3 provides very nice protection in the last crack off to the side. The bottom sews up very well with a 0.75 and a #1.

This route has awesome pro, so it it's ideal for a leader wanting to break into the grade. Nov 12, 2017
Gabe K
Denver, CO
Gabe K   Denver, CO
Tweaked my knee in that left corner starting up and got a #1 Camalot stuck down aiding. Was a bit rushed to get out and evaluate the knee, but I think the cam might succumb to a more persistent attempt. If anyone gets up there and retrieves it, I’d greatly appreciate getting it back and knowing a classic was free of fixed gear! Jan 3, 2018