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Routes in Cabin Wall

Aunt Jemima's Hand Stack T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Better Left Undone T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Four-Wheel Low T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Fred and Barney's Crack T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Junk Corner T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Left Horseshoe Finger T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Left-facing Corner (unknown) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Pair a'grins aka Unknown Roof/Corner T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Passion for Pumping aka Corner Pump Station T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pure Pressure (submitted as Cowboy Justice) T 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Rednekk Justus T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Right Horseshoe Finger T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rustler's Revenge T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rusty's Cave aka Corner/Cupped hands to OW (unknown) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
S Crack T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
TH Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Three Blocks T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Twenty Too Short T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown 5.9 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown Awkward T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown Finger Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unknown Fingers T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unknown Flake T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Willy's Hand Jive T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Chuck Grossman, Chris Begue, and friend, 1982
Page Views: 11,311 total, 108/month
Shared By: ChadARobinson on May 12, 2009
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is the obvious, splitter crack across the gully from S-Crack. Climb tight hands to perfect big hands (#3 Camalot) to a funky pod (crux). It is slightly overhanging for most of the way. Excellent.

Location

This is across the gully from S-Crack. It is easy to see from the parking area.

Protection

#1s, #2s and #3s (Camalots). Maybe a #4 just below the pod.
3 #2s and 3 #3s will sew up the middle part of this route very well. Experienced leaders can probably make do with less. A #5 fits very nicely at the bottom of the OW pod, and a single #3 provides very nice protection in the last crack off to the side. The bottom sews up very well with a 0.75 and a #1.

This route has awesome pro, so it it's ideal for a leader wanting to break into the grade. Nov 12, 2017
Adam Block
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.10-
Adam Block   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.10-
Met a dude that scared me into thinking this thing needed 4 #2s and 5 #3s. Carried a huge rack for no reason. All you need is a #0.75 and 1 for down low, a 4 for the pod and doubles of 2s and 3s. An extra #3 is nice for the ending though. Oct 10, 2017
Anus Herder
Montrose, CO
  5.10a
Anus Herder   Montrose, CO
  5.10a
A 60m rope js long enough to rap from the anchors, got us down easy from the bolts. Did use 20' of cordelette for the TR over the ledge, perfect! May 15, 2016
javi
saint george area
  5.10+
javi   saint george area
  5.10+
I felt the crack up higher was challenging #2 BDs were mostly undercammed #3 BDs were mostly overcammed till right near the pod. Friends may be better on this climb.... I also used a BD #5 in the bottom of the pod.... Three stars because of the choss bottom and funky size. Might be awesome for someone with XL or XS hands
(if you plan on TR this bring a 20' cordelette loop to extend anchor). Sep 3, 2012
Ryan N
Bellingham, WA
Ryan N   Bellingham, WA
Climbed this last week and I have a few pointers for finding it.

The beta says find the obvious splitter across from S Crack as viewed from the parking lot. You definitely cannot see it from the parking lot. It's on the far left of the buttress, which from the parking lot looks like it's separate. If you hike the wash from the left of the parking lot, it will gradually come into view. You will probably notice s crack on the right first, that's when you head up the hill on the left. The climb is great, bring 1, 2, 3, and 4, use face holds when you get to the pod. The chain anchor is above ledge on right. Aug 22, 2012
This thing is a clinic on cupped hands at least for me anyway. Dec 1, 2010
slim

  5.10b
slim    
  5.10b
Thanks for the info, Chris! Jun 16, 2010
First ascent was in 1982, done by the awesome Chuck Grossman, Chris Begue, and a friend from Phili whose name is forgotten. There was a killer, loose block in the wide section whick may have been a factor to the lateness of the first ascent or just the remoteness of the area. Back then most of the cracks were unclimbed and ripe for first ascents by the likes of Robert Filmore, John Hulett, Dave Henritze. Jun 16, 2010
slim

  5.10b
slim    
  5.10b
Pretty wild that the FA (according to Desert Rock, which may be inaccurate) was 1983, when 'Rusty's Cave', just to the L went up in '78. DR says descent is "walk left", but that would be pretty daunting. You might be able to head to the right and finish up 'Pair o' Grins', but I am not certain. Apr 5, 2010
Allen Hill
FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
Allen Hill   FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
FA Chuck Grossman. Aug 18, 2009