Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Boogers & Chocolate

5.9, Trad, 100 ft (30 m),  Avg: 2.4 from 27 votes
FA: Carolyn Parker and Dawn Crocetti
New Mexico > Albuquerque Area > Sandia Mountains > Chimney Canyon > Clandestine Wall

Description

Nice moderate route on the Clandestine Wall. The rock is very good the pro is all there but is hidden from below so the route is a bit committing for the grade (typical and classic Sandias climbing). 

The route has two cruxes. The first crux is about 20ft up and comes in the form of stemming and a corner change. The second crux is moving through the next left facing dihedral.

Location

The route is currently the furthest left hand route on the wall. The climb starts just right of a large boulder before the base area becomes 3rd class terrain. There is a clean red corner about 15-20 ft off the ground. The climb ends at a nice ledge and new bolted anchors 100ft up.

Protection

A light rack up to a #1 Camalot, bring small cams and nuts.

No bolts on the pitch but there is a bolted anchor with rap rings at the top.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Boogers & Chocolate rough topo
[Hide Photo] Boogers & Chocolate rough topo
Dana starting up Boogers on a windy spring day.
[Hide Photo] Dana starting up Boogers on a windy spring day.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Rosco Ross
Albuquerque, NM
  5.9
[Hide Comment] Instead of walking out, we used this climb to get to the top. After the anchors, we angled right so that we were above the 5.8 to the next of it (Morning Wood), and found an easy path to the top. The rock was a little loose above these and could be cleaned up more. We cleaned it up some. Aug 11, 2011
Anna Brown
New Mexico
 
[Hide Comment] I updated the anchor hardware to stainless quicklinks and rap rings.

The hardware was provided by the American Safe Climbing Association ASCA . Please considered donating to support their mission (safeclimbing.org)! Jul 4, 2024
Andrew C
[Hide Comment] Thoughtful route with tricky protection. The two cruxes are reasonable for the grade but really don’t protect well. I used #0 and .3 (can’t remember which went to each crux) and neither were completely confidence inspiring.

There are options for protection throughout the route but definitely committing at the crux for someone leading near their limit. Sep 29, 2024