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Routes in The Boulders

Bert T,S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Brought to you by the letter V S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a V-easy 3 PG13
Ernie S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Oscar Was a Dumpster Junkie S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Room With a View S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Short Story S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Slab Happy S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Toprope1 TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Toprope2 TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Unknown S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unnamed S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, Boulder, 20 ft
FA: Evan Winn, 2009
Page Views: 541 total · 5/month
Shared By: Evan Winn on May 12, 2009
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is purple in the beta photo.

This route is on the tall pointy boulder in the center of the amphitheater. It climbs friendly water sculpted edges that are so good you would think that they are indoors. The crux is between the 1st and 2nd bolt. It involves a flat ledge (the rest are incut). Once you have stemmed out between a ledge and a good sharp left foothold, you are into a rest. The route has great moves and great holds and is one of the best 5.5s that I have climbed. What is the significance of the letter V? 1. It's a big boulder. 2. It's the Roman numeral for 5. Get it?

This is the first of a series of new beginner/intermediate routes on the boulder. The boulders are ideal for beginners and large groups of kids because most of the routes are short and easy and it is easy to set a lot of topropes very quickly by scrambling up the backs of the boulders on the uphill sides.

Location

The route is located at the top of the cleft between the 2 boulders on the north face of the big boulder.

Protection

Four bolts or a big pad and 2 spotters. If you decide to boulder it, don't fall after half way. The anchor is 2 rap hangers over the lip of the boulder. Two long quickdraws will do well for an anchor, but an equalized 24" runner with lockers on the hangers will do even better. It is a good place to teach beginning climbers to rap off of an anchor rather than lower.

Photos

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Michael Schneiter
Glenwood Springs, CO
Michael Schneiter   Glenwood Springs, CO
Probably not appropriate to claim FAs on the easier lines on the boulders. First bolted ascent, maybe, but not a true FA. People have climbed here for a long time, and there were existing anchors on many of these lines. I personally free soloed the easier lines many times, and I'm sure I wasn't the first. Plus, the route Bert follows a crack that is easily protected. Apr 2, 2014