Alabama Hills Gang
5.10a,
Sport, 145 ft (44 m),
Avg: 3.5 from 61
votes
FA: Michael Strassman, Jackie Carroll, Karen Michaelson, Keith Brueckner, Raleigh Collins
California
> Eastern Sierra
> Lone Pine Area
> Alabama Hills
> Alabama Hills N…
> Western Wall Area
> Loaf
Description
Of all the routes on 'The Loaf', Alabama Hills Gang has a flavor all its own. Unlike 'The Pangborn', AHG starts off with sustained thin slab work before reaching the nice patina plates that the rest of The Loaf is known for. So, lace them shoes up tight! Although the route is well protected (17 bolts, 160'), the page author personally feels that this route is one of the hardest routes on the wall.
OK, with that said, step off the flat boulder and onto the slab. Beware....there's a good sized gap between the slab and the boulder. A spotter would be wise to use before clipping the first bolt! After clipping the first bolt, continue up to the next two bolts taking advantage of the small foot divots and dime edges along the way. After passing the 3rd bolt, work your way up left then back right (5.10a) before clipping the 4th bolt. Pass 2 more bolts before reaching the left leaning ramp. Gain the ramp and head up right to gain a stance to clip bolt #7. Once there, step out left onto the face and enjoy the rest of the climb by working up good edges and incuts on patina plates. Pass 8 more bolts before coming to the 'physical' crux (5.9), by overcoming a subtle bulge near the top of the climb. Pass 2 more bolts and you're home free to one of the best view in the 'Bamas'! Rappel the route using TWO ropes (two bolt anchor with rings).
Location
Take Movie Road and head north for 2.5 miles before reaching a right turn in the road. Veer off to the left and follow the dirt road to its end. Park here and hike/scramble to the largest north facing formation (known as 'The Loaf')150 yards west. Some "3rd class tunneling" through large boulders is required to access The Loaf. Once at the wall, locate the route by scrambling to the right around a large boulder to the far right section of The Loaf. A line of bolts that goes up a near featureless slab is 'Alabama Hills Gang'.
Protection
- (2) 60m ropes
- (17) quickdraws
Sparks, NV
Reading the comments on the Pangborn route The first 35' feet of AHG is certainly tougher; clean slab with crimpy small holes for holds. I have to agree ... This is a great slabby, edgy route.
My partner had never climbed this high and the double rope rap really freaked her out. Otherwise we might have jumped on Pangborn for real.
This is my favorite climb here. May 15, 2010
Joshua Tree
Very doable, no epics or injuries and eases considerably mid-way. Seems much more difficult than the .9 rating in the BARC guidebook or compared to other routes on the same wall. I agree with other commentators and rate AHG the 10a and Pangborn the .9. YMMV.
This is a don't miss route! Avoid passing the knot or belaying on top. Secure the rope and rap - have your partner lead using the 2nd rope. That way everyone gets the fun! May 12, 2012
Flaky Foont, WI. Redacted…
Edit 4/21/17: Just repeated this. Yeah, 10a, and the most sustained on the wall, but there is an cruiser section midway. Like Russ, I found the start not too bad but the headwall attention-grabbing. Such a GREAT route. Git er done. Apr 1, 2013