All Locations > California > Sierra Eastside > Lone Pine Area > Alabama Hills > Western Wall Area > The Loaf
Alabama Hills Gang
Avg: 3.4 from 48 votes
|Type:||Sport, 145 ft|
|FA:||Raliegh Collins, Mike Strassman and others|
|Page Views:||4,839 total, 46/month|
|Shared By:||Dave Daly on May 12, 2009|
|Admins:||Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
DescriptionOf all the routes on 'The Loaf', Alabama Hills Gang has a flavor all its own. Unlike 'The Pangborn', AHG starts off with sustained thin slab work before reaching the nice patina plates that the rest of The Loaf is known for. So, lace them shoes up tight! Although the route is well protected (17 bolts, 160'), the page author personally feels that this route is one of the hardest routes on the wall.
OK, with that said, step off the flat boulder and onto the slab. Beware....there's a good sized gap between the slab and the boulder. A spotter would be wise to use before clipping the first bolt! After clipping the first bolt, continue up to the next two bolts taking advantage of the small foot divots and dime edges along the way. After passing the 3rd bolt, work your way up left then back right (5.10a) before clipping the 4th bolt. Pass 2 more bolts before reaching the left leaning ramp. Gain the ramp and head up right to gain a stance to clip bolt #7. Once there, step out left onto the face and enjoy the rest of the climb by working up good edges and incuts on patina plates. Pass 8 more bolts before coming to the 'physical' crux (5.9), by overcoming a subtle bulge near the top of the climb. Pass 2 more bolts and you're home free to one of the best view in the 'Bamas'! Rappel the route using TWO ropes (two bolt anchor with rings).