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> Loaf
Alabama Hills Gang
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 3.5 from 58
votes
Routes in The Loaf
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Alabama Hills Gang S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Crust S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Loaf Arete T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Pangborn S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Paulette's Shortcut S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Ranger Ron S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Roxanne S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Sport, 145 ft (44 m) |
| FA: | Michael Strassman, Jackie Carroll, Karen Michaelson, Keith Brueckner, Raleigh Collins |
| Page Views: | 9,377 total · 48/month |
| Shared By: | Dave Daly on May 12, 2009 · Updates |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
Of all the routes on 'The Loaf', Alabama Hills Gang has a flavor all its own. Unlike 'The Pangborn', AHG starts off with sustained thin slab work before reaching the nice patina plates that the rest of The Loaf is known for. So, lace them shoes up tight! Although the route is well protected (17 bolts, 160'), the page author personally feels that this route is one of the hardest routes on the wall.
OK, with that said, step off the flat boulder and onto the slab. Beware....there's a good sized gap between the slab and the boulder. A spotter would be wise to use before clipping the first bolt! After clipping the first bolt, continue up to the next two bolts taking advantage of the small foot divots and dime edges along the way. After passing the 3rd bolt, work your way up left then back right (5.10a) before clipping the 4th bolt. Pass 2 more bolts before reaching the left leaning ramp. Gain the ramp and head up right to gain a stance to clip bolt #7. Once there, step out left onto the face and enjoy the rest of the climb by working up good edges and incuts on patina plates. Pass 8 more bolts before coming to the 'physical' crux (5.9), by overcoming a subtle bulge near the top of the climb. Pass 2 more bolts and you're home free to one of the best view in the 'Bamas'! Rappel the route using TWO ropes (two bolt anchor with rings).
OK, with that said, step off the flat boulder and onto the slab. Beware....there's a good sized gap between the slab and the boulder. A spotter would be wise to use before clipping the first bolt! After clipping the first bolt, continue up to the next two bolts taking advantage of the small foot divots and dime edges along the way. After passing the 3rd bolt, work your way up left then back right (5.10a) before clipping the 4th bolt. Pass 2 more bolts before reaching the left leaning ramp. Gain the ramp and head up right to gain a stance to clip bolt #7. Once there, step out left onto the face and enjoy the rest of the climb by working up good edges and incuts on patina plates. Pass 8 more bolts before coming to the 'physical' crux (5.9), by overcoming a subtle bulge near the top of the climb. Pass 2 more bolts and you're home free to one of the best view in the 'Bamas'! Rappel the route using TWO ropes (two bolt anchor with rings).
Location
Take Movie Road and head north for 2.5 miles before reaching a right turn in the road. Veer off to the left and follow the dirt road to its end. Park here and hike/scramble to the largest north facing formation (known as 'The Loaf')150 yards west. Some "3rd class tunneling" through large boulders is required to access The Loaf. Once at the wall, locate the route by scrambling to the right around a large boulder to the far right section of The Loaf. A line of bolts that goes up a near featureless slab is 'Alabama Hills Gang'.
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