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Routes in Roadside Rock

Drop Your Cool, Tom Foolery S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
El Corazon Del Loco T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Left Side T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, Sport, 170 ft, 2 pitches
FA: A. Pon & partner, ~2003
Page Views: 379 total · 4/month
Shared By: Tony B on May 12, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

One of the better routes at the crag, which is a measured compliment. The rock is solid, but a little dirty in places, and the slab before and after the roof can tend to be wet, which makes for excitement in the "5.9" micro-edging (which felt harder to me).

Climb up past the first bolt on stems and off-angled holds with pro overhead, then clip another one and make a funky, balance move with long stems and reaches to head up and left onto a very thin face. Faith in your footwork is a must to get on the slab and no less necessary once on it. If the face is damp, staying right might be slightly tougher, but dry at least. Head up and left, then back right just before the roof, using slightly longer slings on the bolts to prevent drag. A few more damp holds may be found in a steep dark area near the 2-bolt belay, but at least the climbing is juggy.

Continue up from that belay (stopping is optional) on more moderate climbing (5.8-) to the top of the rock and belay (again?). The finishing moves are on suspect looking puzzle-piece jugs that turned out to be surprisingly solid and fun.

There was plenty of rope left on our 70m after doing it as a single pitch, and a 60m would certainly reach. a 50m might or might not.
To descend, scramble down and left to a bolt and chain anchor as for 'Left Side' and rap 30m into the bottom of a gully, then walk back to the base of the climb on sloping terrian.

Location

This climb lies on the South edge of the East face of the rock, on the corner facing the Road. You are far enough around the corner that Tom Turkey and Sweat Loaf crags are plainly visible.

Scramble down and left from the South face around a corner to find a bolted line going more up less up the blunt arete. The line starts up, heads left under thebig roof, then back right and up to a bolted anchor near a tree, then on to the top.

Protection

If done in one pitch, a dozen or more slings plus a light rack of cams for gear between placements on occasion.

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