Avg: 4 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, Aid, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||Jim Shimberg, Paul Ross, Andy Ross, Gene Vallee, 4th May 2009|
|Page Views:||2,884 total · 19/month|
|Shared By:||USBRIT Ross on May 11, 2009|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane|
The route starts at the right-hand end of the Weasel formation. It climbs the very impressive crack system up Wingate-quality rock.
P1) Mixed aid (8 bolts) and free up the offwidth crack to reach double anchors 5.9 C2 180' (This pitch might go all free at about 5.11).
P2) Continue up the crack now less steep for about 50' to the second bolt in the left side of the chimney, biner and sling in place. From here lower down and tension/climb down to the left to reach cracks leading to an overhanging notch. Up this to double anchors. 5.8 C2. 100' NOTE: Due to the angle best to leave a rope fixed tight to the anchor top of the first pitch for the descent.
P3) The crack continues up to the left to reach the summit area. 5.6 80'. (rap anchors on right edge)
P4) A short 30' pitch to the true summit. 5.6.
Downclimb the couple of moves. There is a register in a cairn in a groove on the big ledge about 40' below the true summit.
Descent: Rap the route.