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Routes in The Weasel Formation

Belfry Tower. Hells Bells. T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C1
Belfry Tower. Brits in the Belfry T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C1
Devastator Tower T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Horus Tower T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C1
Little Weasel Spire T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C1
Live Free or Die Tower T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2
Ozymandias T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2
Rooster, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2
Sodizin Tower. Bat out of Hell. T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C1
Worse the Heat, the Better the Beer, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C2
Type: Trad, Aid, 400 ft, 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: Jim Shimberg, Paul Ross, Andy Ross, Gene Vallee, 4th May 2009
Page Views: 2,231 total, 22/month
Shared By: USBRIT Ross on May 11, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

The climb is named after the official motto of the State of New Hampshire. First used in a toast by General John Stark in 1809 when he said "Live Free or Die: Death is not the worst of evils." All four climbers at one time or another lived in NH for several years; Gene was born there, Jim still lives there. Jim wanted to climb a virgin tower ..so we gave him one of our projects! He loved carrying the drill... The route therefore is dedicated to all the New Hampshire climbers who after practicing on the granite they prepared them selves for the rigors of the sandstone and contributed to so many new climbs in the SW deserts of Utah..

The route starts at the right-hand end of the Weasel formation. It climbs the very impressive crack system up Wingate-quality rock.

P1) Mixed aid (8 bolts) and free up the offwidth crack to reach double anchors 5.9 C2 180' (This pitch might go all free at about 5.11).

P2) Continue up the crack now less steep for about 50' to the second bolt in the left side of the chimney, biner and sling in place. From here lower down and tension/climb down to the left to reach cracks leading to an overhanging notch. Up this to double anchors. 5.8 C2. 100' NOTE: Due to the angle best to leave a rope fixed tight to the anchor top of the first pitch for the descent.

P3) The crack continues up to the left to reach the summit area. 5.6 80'. (rap anchors on right edge)

P4) A short 30' pitch to the true summit. 5.6.

Downclimb the couple of moves. There is a register in a cairn in a groove on the big ledge about 40' below the true summit.

Descent: Rap the route.

Location

The Weasel formation has three separate summits; this route climbs to the previously unclimbed eastern summit. Northern San Rafael Swell. See info on the drive to campsite below the Weasel.

Protection

Desert rack from 1/2", with two #5 Friends and two #6 Friends. Slings. Two 60m ropes. Etc.
USBRIT Ross
Keswick Cumbria.UK
 
USBRIT Ross   Keswick Cumbria.UK
 
Good effort Greg ... One of our party tried the OW on a rope and had a tough time ..I think it will go free some time. Jan 26, 2017
greg t
Chevy, Silverado
greg t   Chevy, Silverado
Climbed this route in May 2011. I lived in NH for many years, and thought it was fitting to climb this. A good desert adventure. I lead the OW pitch with ease by pulling on a #6 in spots. My partner tried to free it on TR, and being not the best OW / chimney climber nearly puked from exhaustion. Amazing summit view. Dec 19, 2013
DaveB  
Congrats. Nice photos, description, beta, etc.
May 11, 2009