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Routes in Gritscone

99 Grit S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
A Girl's Best Friend S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Booty Squirrel S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Chica Rapida S,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Lucky Arms S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Magnetic Anomaly S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Needle Magnet S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pete's Possum Palace S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rough Cut S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Snaffle Baffler S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
So Easy I Forgot to Laugh S,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a V-easy 3
So Funny I Forgot to Rope Up 5.7 S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 35 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,312 total, 13/month
Shared By: Rafe on May 11, 2009
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


21 Opinions

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Description

A couple of moves of moderate climbing bring you into a crux reaching for a jug up and left. Finish on more moderate climbing.

Location

To the left of Booty Squirrel

Protection

4 bolts Fixed anchors

Photos

+1 on it being easier before (~2014). Now looks 11c. Also bolt #2 now spins. Jun 25, 2017
Rafe
 
Rafe  
 
Yeah I climbed this again more recently and remembered it being different. I think all I did was bump out to a small side pull on my right hand from the standing position to reach the jug. Aug 18, 2016
Ross Coyle
Murray, UT
  5.11a/b
Ross Coyle   Murray, UT
  5.11a/b
I'd recommend updating the beta to reflect the missing finger pocket. Now requires a slabby undercling pull while pinching/palming a high right hand to make the next move. Aug 14, 2016
I think what was a crux hold (undercling finger pocket) fell off last time I climbed it with a friend - it was still possible to climb it without it using a less visible crimp slightly higher. Not sure if it's still 11a though (max 11b though) Aug 2, 2016
There is a toe pocket on the right side that you have to hook to grab the crux. Dec 30, 2013