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Routes in Pump Station

5.11d R S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Body Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Climbers Just Want To Have Fun! T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Corn Flakes S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crack 5.7 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Despondent S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Jim Dandy T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Spread 'Em T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unknown (Center SW face) S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Unknown (Far Left) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown (Left SW Face) S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Upper Section T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 291 total, 3/month
Shared By: Dean Cool on May 10, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Some routes are closed Details

Description

P1. The first pitch climbs a short crack on quality rock to a two bolt anchor.

P2. The second pitch climbs up broken cracks and ledges through the most right crack system to a two bolt anchor at the top.

You can either rap with one 60 meter rope or walk off.

Location

Start in a hand crack on the Southwestern face between "Climbers Just Want To Have Fun!" and "Chimney, 5.6."

Protection

Rack up to 3".

Photos

Owen Darrow wrote: "Great climb with a solid crack. You can get 2 knuckles in most of this crack all the way up. Great first or second trad lead."

In the interest of climbers looking for their first trad leads, this is a dangerous choice. For one thing, I feel that it's almost as difficult as the bolted 5.9 just to the left. Furthermore, I had to fiddle to get less-than-bombproof pro through the first 15 feet or so: My first piece was a 0.5 Tri-cam cammed in a shallow slot at about 10 feet; a semi-blind, shallow placement of a green Camalot at about 12 feet; and an endwise Stopper at about 15 feet. The first hand jam and easy cam placement was found at about 20 feet. If you blindly trust gear placements that are really incapable of stopping a leader fall, then you may think protection is easy.

The thin crack on the second pitch was of similar difficulty and required placing tiny and small Camalots, plus a couple wires. For decades, I've been leading 5.10 trad routes around North America and have enjoyed many old-school sandbags. However, sandbagging novice leaders is NOT in the interest of the climbing community. Dec 9, 2010
Owen Darrow
Garmisch,
Owen Darrow   Garmisch,
Great climb with a solid crack. You can get 2 knuckles in most of this crack all the way up. Great first or second trad lead. Dec 3, 2010