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Routes in Air Spire

Aimless Foreshadowing T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Air T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Chucklehead Crack (aka Spike's Crack) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Phallus in Wonderland T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Return of the Chucklehead's T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown (The Line over Lucy?) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 100 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Leo and Wenzel
Page Views: 3,642 total, 35/month
Shared By: Corey Morris on May 9, 2009
Admins: Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

Pitch 1: Has a tricky start. Follow crack for 45 ft. Then 4th class angling right to a one move pull to a ledge. On the north end of the air spire are 2 bolt anchors. 5.8~55 ft.
Pitch 2: From belay anchor look right and take the chimney to the top of the spire. Two bolt anchors at top and allow for rappel to base just barely with a 60m rope. Tie knots on the ends and aim just right of the tree on 4th class ledges when you toss your rope. The anchors at the top of this climb are not the same anchors as "Air". 5.6/7~45 ft.

Location

From "Air" go directly down hill and turn left, this is the left-hand crack on this wall.

Protection

Standard rack. Pro seems pretty solid. Some larger cams for the 2nd pitch.
Steve Sangdahl
eldo sprngs,co
Steve Sangdahl   eldo sprngs,co
James, thanks for bringing up "Spike". I knew him well during my tenure at DL. He was part of our twisted DLFA scene bitd. He had a bad accident once on the Black Ice couloir in the Tetons. I won't go into details, but he was always a little different after that....not that he wasn't a little different to begin with. Haven't heard from him in awhile but I wish him well where ever he is. Peace and club salute.Steve S.
Leo can explain why it's also known as Spikes crack. Aug 15, 2017
James Schroeder
Sauk County, WI
James Schroeder   Sauk County, WI  
A bit of history; Geoffrey Averkamp (aka Spike), was an active local climber and photographer in the Baraboo area during the 80's and 90's his large format black and white photos can still be found on display in several Baraboo locations - The Little Village and Wheeler's Campground come to mind. And I'm pretty sure more than one graced the walls of the Silverdale at one point in time.

I couldn't say who climbed this first, but I thought I would share what limited info I recall about Spike. Aug 15, 2017
Chris treggE
Madison, Beersconsin
Chris treggE   Madison, Beersconsin  
It doesn't matter as much the person who posts the route says any more. The rating will change to what the majority consensus is over time. Dec 11, 2016
Corey Morris
Landstuhl, Germany
 
Corey Morris   Landstuhl, Germany
 
Mr. Wenzel

If you would like me to downgrade your route...I will... Dec 10, 2016
Rich T
 
Rich T  
 
Climbed again yesterday and to me the first pitch is probably the best, most sustained 5.8 climbing at the bluff. Great climb. Aug 17, 2013
Andy Hansen
Longmont, Colorado
  5.8
Andy Hansen   Longmont, Colorado
  5.8
Very good route, great movement and pro. I used nothing bigger than a #3 Camalot for the top pitch. The chimney is, in my opinion, the better of the two pitches although the 1st pitch is where the route gets the grade. Rapped off with two 60's as another party did air and then we beer partied on top of the spire and yelled, "Hooooeeeeesssss!" to the boaters below- very obnoxious, I know, but it was 4th of July celebratory. Jul 3, 2011
Rich T
 
Rich T  
 
Does anyone konw what the second direct pitch is rated? I'd probably say 5.8ish. We got on the route yesterday not actually knowing what route we were on logically went straight up for pitch two. While there is a 5-10' section where the rock quality is poor this should not be missed. Apr 10, 2011
Pretty sure we did the first ascent, had to clean a ton of ferns / moss out of that thing. Also did the line to the right, as well as the thin buttress to the left. The line on the left required pulling a tiny roof on holds that seemed ready to snap... I wonder if they are still there.

The thing should be rated 5.7, it's far easier than the fingercrack on the first pillar at the beginning pf the crag (formerly known as hydroponics) Nov 12, 2010
Josh Olson
Durango, CO
  5.7
Josh Olson   Durango, CO
  5.7
The 2nd pitch belay anchor has new slings, and the slings aren't directly through the hangers anymore. Good climb, great views. Sep 9, 2010
John W. Knoernschild
Wisconsin
  5.8
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
  5.8
This route should not be missed! The crack in the beginning is great and offers good pro. Fun movement. The second pitch is an amazing chimney with some off-width moves as well. Chains on top to the right of the chimney. I'd say like 5.7 for the second pitch. Great pro all the way and fun climbing all the way. A bit taller than air. Had to double rap with a 60m. Sep 7, 2010
Tradiban
  5.8
Tradiban  
  5.8
So this is what the slinged bolts were for! I kept going straight at the ledge just right of Air. Bad idea, pro was bad and rock was suspect.

I then topped out over Air and rapped off the chain anchors for this climb. Plenty of rope left over with a 70m. Jul 1, 2010
Tradiban
  5.8
Tradiban  
  5.8
Also known as "Spikes Crack" in the Ryan Hansen guidebook. FA in that book "Jeff Avercamp, 1985". Jun 11, 2010