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Routes in Sun Towers

Betty and Ray's Adventure T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Claret Cup Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crack of Don T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Daffy Duck Pinnacle T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Dovercourt T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Icarus Line aka The Thin White Line, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Phaethon T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Shady Character T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sunup S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Twin Owls Center Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown offwidth T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Waitin' For Wane T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, Sport, 140 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Bob and Lisa Eakle
Page Views: 936 total, 9/month
Shared By: Alex Garhart on May 8, 2009
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Pitch 1: Climb low-angle crack up the west skyline arete until the rock steepens below a roof. The roof protects with a small TCU or a #4 Trango Ballnut. Pull the roof on a flared hand-jam and make easy moves to the bottom of the headwall (110 feet).

Pitch 2: Climb 5.9 face past two bolts to the summit (30 feet).

Location

Follow the Sun Tower trail and look for signs for the Beehive Formation. The pinnacle is ~300 yards east of the Upper Sun Tower.

Protection

Standard rack plus #4 Ballnut or small TCU for roof, 2 bolts. Rap 90 feet to the northwest from two bolt anchor.

Photos

Jesse Zacher
Grand Junction, Co
Jesse Zacher   Grand Junction, Co  
Rap bolts have been replaced. Look over the edge on the side closest to buttress behind the pinnacle to see two rap hangers above the ledge you step down to. Careful of loose rock when you pull the rope.... Courtesy of the ASCA. Jul 26, 2010
rick gardiner
Grand Junction, CO,
rick gardiner   Grand Junction, CO,
Easily done in one pitch. May 30, 2010
Alex Garhart  
 
This thing is stiff, but it is Unaweep. Not sure where the 0.5 BD would have gone in the roof. This route is a reachy one move wonder. May 18, 2010
Jeremy Werlin
  5.10d
Jeremy Werlin  
  5.10d
Maybe I was in the wrong spot at the roof (don't think so), but this thing totally shut me down and I ended up aiding through. I've flashed (for example) Renaissance Roof 10d. so I don't think I'm a total punter, but. . . . a #0.5 Camalot protected it well--no Ballnut on my rack.

The face up above was cool. May 17, 2010