Avg: 4 from 4 votes
|Type:||Trad, 150 ft (45 m)|
|FA:||Tom Gilje - 1995|
|Page Views:||3,446 total · 23/month|
|Shared By:||Josh Janes on May 8, 2009|
|Admins:||slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane|
Indian Creek 2019 info: or the linkblm.gov/press-release/annou….
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat Wall and Reservoir Wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
Surprisingly, given the name, the route has ten bolts... but if you don't bring a few finger- and hand-size pieces, you're going to be hating life. Even so, there is potential to sprain an ankle here or there, but overall the route is quite safe. Kudos to Gilje for his vision and impeccable style in establishing this amazing pitch.
The Trad Warrior climbs up a gently overhanging panel of orange water-streaked rock and is rather isolated from the other main Mill Creek areas. Access is from above: fix a line to rap down to a spacious belay ledge two hundred feet off the canyon floor, and take a lead line with you. Climb up fairly easy rock to a first crux move stepping left. Good rests lead up to a second crux sequence above a short hand crack. Above this is another marginal rest, followed by a deceptive traverse left, a good shake, and a techy crux sequence up a beautiful black seam. This is followed by another good rest and finally some rad bear-hugging to the top-out on the rim.
This is a great route but may need some brushing as it doesn't see much traffic. Gilje didn't rate it, and no moves are probably harder than V4/5, but I thought overall it was a tad harder redpoint than The Wasp in RMNP, but with a similar tech style, so I'll call it 12+ here and give Tom Gilje, whose routes I enjoy, a big "thank you" for his many climbing treasures.