Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Boone Speed
Page Views: 4,502 total · 37/month
Shared By: hEatchel on May 6, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

49 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:

     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:

-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
Access Issue: Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details


Steepest section of rock. Amazing pockets leads to center crux. followed by huge slots to the chains. STEEP!


Little Mill Campground .. no more campsite .. obvious steeeeeeep rock on side of road.




Bad Sock Puppet
Bad Sock Puppet  
I've said this about several climbs in American Fork but I'll say it again, a must do classic! Boone Speed really hit the mark with this one. Easiest approach in the canyon. Start on a verticle face up to the high first bolt right at the beginning of the overhang. The face is littered with positive holds, but nothing but big moves will leave you pumped. Making dropknees your best friend will make this one a cinch. Aug 23, 2009
Ryan Stott
Salt Lake City, UT
Ryan Stott   Salt Lake City, UT
BSP is right. This is a must-do classic for AF, and there are no excuses to check it out, since the approach is zero. Pig Pen is the furthest right of the 3 climbs on this wall. Woodstock is the steep climb up the arete of this wall, but it isn't on Mountain Project. A useful hold broke off Woodstock last weekend, and it is a bit harder than 12b now. Apr 27, 2012
Farmington, utah
KipHenrie   Farmington, utah
For the 12a climber this will be a fabulous workout. For me there were 3 definite cruxes. The holds are actually fairly positive with some huge jugs - yet the past vertical climbing will wear you out. Long moves and finding the right feet with the clock ticking is the name of the game. Go send it. 9 stars. May 24, 2012
Brennan Crellin
Millcreek, UT
Brennan Crellin   Millcreek, UT  
Low-grade climb to high first bolt. Sustained large moves on bomber holds through all bolts to chains. Crux in center at right-slanted flake. Proper sequence and high feet on the big moves make this an awesome climb! Jul 2, 2012
Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
Fantastic jug pulling. Super easy for grade. The approach is a killer. Jul 31, 2013
Manufactured? I swear there was a glue on hold about 2/3 the way up... looks like a solid 13 without the hold though. Great, consistent, reachy, steep, jug haul otherwise! Worth hopping on. Have fun with the tree on the rap! Nov 8, 2013
Leify Guy
Leify Guy  
5 bolts and chains... Feb 22, 2014
Leify Guy
Leify Guy  
The crimp rail/flake started to flex, it felt like it was coming loose... it looks like it was glued at one point, but could definitely use a new glue job... May 13, 2014
Rob Job
Provo, UT
Rob Job   Provo, UT
Great route. Once you've dialed in the beta this climb is a lot of fun. Until then, it is pretty pumpy. Actually, even with the beta dialed in it's still pretty pumpy. The right rail that you move off of to get to the left pocket where you clip the 3rd bold moved ever so slightly. May 23, 2014
Leify Guy
Leify Guy  
Returned to find the crimp rail at the base of the route, the route still goes, but is quite a bit more difficult... Jul 7, 2014
Pretty sure the fallen crimp has already been glued back on. It is now a comfy finger bucket. Jun 1, 2015
James Leavy
Provo, Uah
James Leavy   Provo, Uah
I went to climb this just last week, and like Leif said, the crimp rail is gone and hasn't been glued back on. Behind where the crimp rail was is a small crimp which cannot be matched on, you have to lock off with one arm and head straight for the big pocket. It honestly seems more fun this way though. Probably 12c. Jun 14, 2015
Tristan Mayfield
Tristan Mayfield   SLC, UT
Super fun! Don't glue the crimp rail back on as the crux move is so satisfying when you stick it! Also, if you're looking at the grade and expecting a 12a, just keep in mind that it would be quite stout, it's just as hard a Helix in my opinion. Jun 22, 2016
Matthew Colemere
Alpine, UT
Matthew Colemere   Alpine, UT
Great route with big moves on big holds. The crux is pretty sharp and in your face, but I think that the crimp rail falling off doesn't make this any harder than the original grade (5.12a/b). Jul 11, 2017