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Changing the Stripes

5.4, Sport, 250 ft (76 m), 3 pitches,  Avg: 2.8 from 85 votes
FA: Jason Stevens & Virgil Ash
Utah > Central Utah > Maple Canyon > Maple Canyon Rd > Heart Rock Area > Changing the Stripes…
Warning Access Issue: This area is located on private property. DetailsDrop down

Description

P1: From the starting platform, climb up and into a
crack system. Stay left of the crack/coner (5.5) and
top out on the bulge at the first anchor station (50’). 6 bolts

P2: Climb a long angle, faint arete to a couple of
vertical steps. A short patina face leads to a couple
more steps and the next anchor station (5.5). 7 bolts

P3: Continue up the arete, clip a long sling on the
last bolt and top out on a platform. Move right
to the left leaning ramp/arete a follow it up and
through the slot to the summit. (5.4). 8 bolts

Can rappel the route or rappel at Bayer's anchors which are accessed further up the ridge for less chance of ropes getting caught.

Location

Park at or near Anti-Gravity Rock (two
turns in the road below Box Canyon). Cross the creek
and stay left of a huge boulder and bush-whack
north up the draw. The vegetation is thick and there
is no trail as of 4.18.09. When you near some large
boulders on your right, move right and skirt the base
of the cliff. When “Heart Rock” comes into view above
you, climb a shallow gully on your left to a platform
roughly 30’ above the trees.

Protection

Bolts. Take long slings for the belay stations. A couple of long slings are helpful to reduce rope drag at the top of the pillar on P3.

You can do the entire route with one 60M rope. Sign the summit register!

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Changing the Stripes from the road
[Hide Photo] Changing the Stripes from the road
leading the final pitch
[Hide Photo] leading the final pitch
Amazing view from the top!
[Hide Photo] Amazing view from the top!
Climbers at the top of pitch 2 on "Changing the Stripes"
[Hide Photo] Climbers at the top of pitch 2 on "Changing the Stripes"
Noah Stevens at the second belay
[Hide Photo] Noah Stevens at the second belay
Virgil Ash on the third pitch.
[Hide Photo] Virgil Ash on the third pitch.
View from the Road. Changing of the Stripes goes along the right ridge to the summit on the left of Heart Rock
[Hide Photo] View from the Road. Changing of the Stripes goes along the right ridge to the summit on the left of Heart Rock
Top of P3
[Hide Photo] Top of P3
Virgil Ash signing the summit register.
[Hide Photo] Virgil Ash signing the summit register.
Virgil Ash following on the first ascent of Changing the Stripes
[Hide Photo] Virgil Ash following on the first ascent of Changing the Stripes
A view of Heart Rock from Changing the Stripes.
[Hide Photo] A view of Heart Rock from Changing the Stripes.
rapping down pitch 1
[Hide Photo] rapping down pitch 1

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Kip H
Farmington, utah
  5.6
[Hide Comment] As you drive up the canyon on the right you'll see a huge wall and at the top of the wall you'll see a formation in the shape of a heart. This is heart rock. Directly left of it is a wall that holds this climb. I'll take a pic next time I'm up there. There is a pullout to the right, some old campfire. We cairned the trail up to it. May 16, 2011
[Hide Comment] wait. I thought it was shaped like a heart? May 16, 2011
Alex Abramov
San Diego, CA
  5.4
[Hide Comment] Super easy, super safe. This is a good route for very beginners and gym climbers. 5.4 (at a stretch, definitely 5.1 in terms of Yosemite or Tahquitz) Nov 11, 2011
C Hopwood
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.5
[Hide Comment] The approach is far harder than anything on the climb, otherwise this route would get more stars. Make no mistake, you will be tree-to-treeing up the slope to the climb so plan accordingly. Alex Abramov's photo in the beta section is taken from the pullout under the heart shaped rock. Enter the dry creek-bed in the back of the pullout and walk upstream a few hundred feet. There is a cairn on the right bank. Turn and scramble up the "trail" up to the base of the climb. Rap twice with a 70m rope, otherwise rap thrice. Jun 25, 2012
Jeff Hofheins 1
Portland, OR
  5.5
[Hide Comment] The approach still doesn't really have any sort of trail. Lots of bushwacking! Jul 6, 2014
Emerson Takahashi
Casper, WY
  5.5
[Hide Comment] THERE ARE TWO DIFFERENT TRAILS THAT LEAD UP TO THE BASE OF THE CLIMB.
Take the trail marked by a cairn a little downhill of the campsite. This trail is fairly steep. Even though it seems like you head in the wrong direction for a little while, stay on the trail! Stay to the right of the big boulders and you'll be ok. It was our first time going up to CTS, and we were able to follow the trail without a problem(other than being exhausted!)

When you are done with the route, take the OTHER TRAIL that leads straight downward from the base of the climb that is a little steeper. Use this as the descent and get back to your car within 2-3 minutes. Be careful, its steep and the dirt is loose- you might fall on your ass.

This route might as well be 4 pitches :P Aug 30, 2014
Dallas R
Traveling the USA
[Hide Comment] Turn out is also a little primitive campground. Wooden box sign says Private, donations accepted, climb at your own risk. Lugged boots for traction are better than approach shoes. Steep loose trail.

My partner says she is in love with whoever bolted the routes. Spaced 10-15 apart, easily spotted from the previous bolt, but eco-treated and difficult to spot from the belay station.

Summit log was pretty cool. Interesting to see where some of the folks that climbed this before you are from and what they had to say. 99% were stoked.

Climbing was pretty easy. Belay stations are comfortable for 2. A group would have issues. Raps are off the fall line. You have to work at staying on the arête to get to the anchors.

First time on conglomerate. Raised some rope drag issues. Up was ok, when we went to pull the rope from the rap we had lots of rope drag, had to pull hard. Then when the end fell, it did not follow the climb line, it fell sideways onto the conglomerate. A slight s curve caught a few nodules. We had our new rope that is still fairly slick, had we used old fluffy it could have been more interesting. Still took some flipping and tugging to get it loose.

This is a really good climb for people first starting out and wanting to test their skills in lead climbing multi-pitch. The low grade means you will concentrate more on managing a multi-pitch climb than on doing the climb. Mar 29, 2015
[Hide Comment] A super fun route and perfect for climbers getting to know multipitch climbing.
I think 5.5 is a stretch for this route - more like 5.2 IMHO.
We had two parties of two with 70m ropes. We linked the first two pitches together to make it a two pitch climb. Two 70m ropes allowed us to rap from the summit, down the gully (on climbers right), and all the way to the base (with about 6 or 7 meters of rope left over on each line).
Beware of rope tangle when tossing ropes for rapping. The lines can wrap around the cobbles (up/down back/forth) and nearly lock up. This made cleaning my rap lines a PITA on the way down, but luckily did not happen when pulling the ropes after rapping. Oct 24, 2016
Nathan G
Utah
 
[Hide Comment] Great intro to maple canyon. I led a 5.6 in the canyon as well and this was MUCH easier. It'd be a good beginner lead or intro to multipitch. Rap the route with a 60m rope (3 raps). Be mindful of the line while rapping as it likes to get caught on every single cobble... Apr 9, 2019
Jacob Baldwin
Kamas, UT
  5.5
[Hide Comment] Rapped the route with two seventies. Reached the ground no problem. Had trouble pulling the rope down as it was caught. In hindsight may have been better in two rappels or rapping a line to the left of the route.

Lots of fun though. I would definitely recommend it as a place to learn multi pitch techniques. Apr 20, 2019
Old lady H
Boise, ID
  5.4
[Hide Comment] This was fun! As a newer climber, and at only 4'11", I will add this is easy climbing, but, there is one very short section on the climb that is more vertical. Only a few moves, but it might be a bit harder than the 5.0-5.4 climbing for a beginner, if you can't just reach over the top. It is also an awkward rappel in spots, that may not be great for total beginners. The hardest part, as others have stated, is it truly is a very steep hike up, and slippery slope down. There are a couple of steeper scrambly bits to negotiate for the ascent/descent too. I slapped the rope back on my harness and took a "belay" for one downclimb, but I also had a sprained ankle I was babying on this trip! Jul 31, 2019
Rono Srimani
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.5
[Hide Comment] Great easy route, pretty easy to keep the rope from getting stuck during the descent if you pay attention. The summit registry was gone though, there was a random bolt in the middle of the summit where I assume it used to be? Aug 14, 2019
Jason Stevens
Ephraim, UT
  5.4
[Hide Comment] Yes, there is a bolt at the summit where the register is supposed to be. It sucks that it's gone. Aug 14, 2019
Old lady H
Boise, ID
  5.4
[Hide Comment] When we were there, end of July 2019, the register was in an ammo box, stuffed under a bush, not attached to a bolt. Plenty of pages in it, and a generous supply of writing gear. Hunt around, maybe? That was really fun, signing my first ever summit register! :-( Aug 22, 2019
Emerson Takahashi
Casper, WY
  5.5
[Hide Comment] I recall making a simul-climb ascent of CTS years ago all in a single "pitch". Loaded up with QD's and 30ft of rope between us, my partner and I climbed the route in maybe 15 minutes. Pure zen climbing! Oct 10, 2019
Robert S
Driftwood, TX
  5.2
[Hide Comment] We climbed this today. The first bolt on P1 was loose. I don't mean a spinning hanger; I mean the bolt itself was loose enough that I could have removed it by hand.

I tightened it as much as I could and moved on. The second bolt had some loose parts, but the bolt itself seemed fine. All other hardware on the route seemed solid.

Yes, I realize the grade and that very few leaders are likely to fall at the start on what is really 4th class ground, but I hope someone with ties to the local climbing coalition sees this and addresses the issue. Jul 13, 2020
Jason Stevens
Ephraim, UT
  5.4
[Hide Comment] Thanks Robert S...next time I am over we will blast up the route and repair that bolt. :) Jul 14, 2020
[Hide Comment] For the grade (somewhere between 5.2 and 5.4) this is definitely a 3-star route. Well-bolted for a new leader, fun exposure, and a relaxing summit with great views of Heart Rock--you can't beat it. Easy to combine any 2 of the 3 pitches on the way up with a 70 m rope. For the rappel (again, with a 70 m), I'd recommend rapping from the top to the penultimate anchors, then a second rap all the way to the bottom (you'll get a lot of resistance pulling the rope if you combine the rap pitches otherwise).

You can get amazing photos of Tachycardia climbs from the top, particularly in the evening. Sep 19, 2021
Thomas Michie
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.4
[Hide Comment] Great Route. Had some misadventures trying to get to it (just go to Heart Rock and make a hard left), but really enjoyed the climb from start to finish. Rapping off Bayer with a 70m rope gets you to the bottom in one, with no risk of your rope getting caught. Highly recommend for 1st multi leads Jun 24, 2023
Drew Schaller
Carlsbad, CA
  5.4
[Hide Comment] Use Emerson Takahashi's trail beta and you will be golden. The climb is V-Chill. Rappel was the hardest part of climb because of the relative grade of the climb. Jul 10, 2023