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Routes in Saturn V
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Thrust S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Tick Tick Boom S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Sport, 200 ft (61 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | Tristan Higbee, Christian Burrell, 4/30/09 |
| Page Views: | 3,936 total · 22/month |
| Shared By: | Tristan Higbee on Apr 30, 2009 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Description
Get ready for some insane exposure! Three pretty short pitches (belays were added wherever there were stances or ledges) of solid climbing. Pitches one and two could probably be combined but linking two and three would result in hideous rope drag.
Pitch 1: The tricky climbing starts right away and the whole pitch is pretty stiff. The holds are inobvious. You can get a knee bar in under the micro roof. Belay at a small ledge. 40' 5.10c, 5 bolts to chains.
Pitch 2: Not quite as technically difficult as the first pitch but more sustained. 60' 5.10c, 8 (?) bolts to chains.
Pitch 3: The money pitch. Absolutely amazing climbing. Head up and right from the belay on good jugs and enjoy the gobsmacking exposure. 70' 5.10b. 8 (?) bolts to chains.
Descent: This is a bit tricky. You could rap with two ropes from the top of three to the top of one or maybe even to the ground. But the third pitch is too steep and traversing to easily just rappel down with one rope. This is what we did: Thread the rope through the anchors on top of pitch 3 and lower one climber down. He should probably clip some bolts on the way down. He can make it down to the top of the second pitch. Then the second person can make a double-strand rappel. The first guy can pull the second guy in to the top of the second pitch (the second guy cleans the draws as he rappels). One single rope rappel (with a 60m rope) can just barely make it to the ground from the top of pitch 2.
Pitch 1: The tricky climbing starts right away and the whole pitch is pretty stiff. The holds are inobvious. You can get a knee bar in under the micro roof. Belay at a small ledge. 40' 5.10c, 5 bolts to chains.
Pitch 2: Not quite as technically difficult as the first pitch but more sustained. 60' 5.10c, 8 (?) bolts to chains.
Pitch 3: The money pitch. Absolutely amazing climbing. Head up and right from the belay on good jugs and enjoy the gobsmacking exposure. 70' 5.10b. 8 (?) bolts to chains.
Descent: This is a bit tricky. You could rap with two ropes from the top of three to the top of one or maybe even to the ground. But the third pitch is too steep and traversing to easily just rappel down with one rope. This is what we did: Thread the rope through the anchors on top of pitch 3 and lower one climber down. He should probably clip some bolts on the way down. He can make it down to the top of the second pitch. Then the second person can make a double-strand rappel. The first guy can pull the second guy in to the top of the second pitch (the second guy cleans the draws as he rappels). One single rope rappel (with a 60m rope) can just barely make it to the ground from the top of pitch 2.
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