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Routes in Middle Elden Canyon

8 Nikkis Tall T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Bat Wings S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cheep and Juicy T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Musical Skinheads T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pazuzu T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Sombrero De Droga T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sucky the Cow S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 100 ft, 3 pitches
FA: J. Gentry
Page Views: 94 total · 1/month
Shared By: Jerimiah Gentry on Apr 30, 2009
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Access Issue: Stage II Fire Restrictions and Closures in Place as of 8:00 AM May 23 Details

Location [Suggest Change]

A little tricky to find as the bolts are/were well camouflaged. Head up Middle Elden past Musical Skinheads et al to a crazy beautiful arch/cave. Go up the slabs to the left of the arch until you see a steep over hanging wall to your right. There is a left facing corner above a rounded buldge upon which you may see bolts. That's the third pitch. The second pitch traverses in from the left and begins in the dark little alcove.

Description [Suggest Change]

This route has would be great if it were a little more sustained. It does explore some interesting terrain and offer some fun moves. The weirdness comes from the first two mini pitches. P1: is basically a v2 boulder move on to the top of a cave at the base of a big impressive white wall. 2 bolts. P2 goes up about 10' through a few crazy gas pockets and then traverses out off the ledge past 3(?) bolts to a spicy move to the base of a dihedral. Attentive belaying will keep you off the ledge. I would say this is the crux at 11a. I may be over rating it but it would really suck to break your ankle way the hell up in that canyon. P3 is fun stemming and face in a right facing corner. Some small blue alien sized pieces up high get you over a bulged to a 10'(?) section of hand crack. The Final belay offers a great view and a ledge that feels like it's way the hell up there with a beautiful old tree. You can tell not many humans have hung out there and its a nice place to drink some tea and enjoy the amazing view. Two bolts and 60m rope return you to your pack. Climb this thing and tell me what you think!

Protection [Suggest Change]

At the most 10 draws, some small aliens (black, blue, green?) and a few hand sized pieces. A thermos of tea/bourbon.

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