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The Good Red Road

5.12a, Sport, 50 ft (15 m),  Avg: 2.2 from 21 votes
FA: Vanio Kodas & Bob D'Antonio
Colorado > Canon City > Shelf Rd > Cactus Cliff > B. Cactus Cliff Left…

Description

This has a bouldery crux in the overhang about 10 feet below the anchors. The crux flake may look precarious but does not flex or move when yarded on.

Location

Start at the base of the tree left of Lats.

Protection

Quickdraws.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

slim

  5.12a
[Hide Comment] This is a pretty fun route, definitely worth doing if you are in the area and have ticked some of the nearby classics. The crux is indeed pretty bouldery, with kind of a power/body position blend. The lower climbing has mixed rock quality but is actually pretty fun. Feb 26, 2014
[Hide Comment] That "precarious" crux flake broke on me today, and I felt the move without the "extended" flake was significantly harder (I had to aid through it the second time). Maybe I was a little wigged out from breaking 4 inches off?

Meh route. May 23, 2017
Nelissa Milfeld
Boulder, CO
 
[Hide Comment] With the missing flake, the crux is really heinously hard. To provide context, I had just done Cure second go and whipped repeatedly trying to do the crux. Also, I broke off a bunch of footholds down low, and the flake to the right seems like it might guillotine your belayer. NOT recommended until someone cleans this up. Mar 12, 2018
Adam Stackable
Tulsa, OK
 
[Hide Comment] My first time at Shelf Road last weekend, I tried this route. I think it's really great. Someone said it was 11.d/12a, I didn't know about the hold break. On my onsight attempt, I made it into the bulge, unclipped some previous climber's bail biner, was too far left, realized my mistake, downclimbed some, then without falling or rest went back into the bulge, angled right, and then fell with my fingers in the pocket signaling the end of the crux. I was pretty pumped, but with some rest and 1 more hang, I was able to make it from below the crux to the top clean. Looking forward to coming back and hopefully send next go. 5.12 seems accurate. Apr 26, 2021
Branty
Boulder, CO
  5.12
[Hide Comment] This is still a good route! The tough liebacking crux at the upper bulge felt harder than .12a. Definitely worth doing.

Getting to bolt 2 is a bit spooky, though -- falling there would almost certainly result in a ground fall. Another bolt would be nice, especially given the fragile footholds down there. Dec 31, 2023