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Mosquito Coast

5.8 PG13, Trad, Sport, 120 ft (36 m),  Avg: 1.9 from 20 votes
FA: Andy Roberts, Liz Devaney
Utah > Southeast Utah > Sunshine Wall > Sunshine Wall Routes
Warning Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek DetailsDrop down

Description

Farthest Left route (N) on Sunshine wall. Crux is right at the start after the initial 20 ft section to the leadge. Crux protects well with small gear or #1 camalot. Remainder of route has drilled pitons.

Location

left side of Sunshine Wall

Protection

small cams to #1 camalot

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Michael Gilbert
Salt Lake City
  5.8 R
[Hide Comment] Pretty easy after the couple low cruxes, just keep putting your toes straight into the crack and head for the top. There are only 4 bolts on this whole route which makes it much more scary than difficult. If you blow the first or second clips your fall will be rather unpleasant and might involve the ground. The climbing between the second and fourth bolts is the safest, but there is probably about 40'-50' between the fourth bolt and the anchor, it gets quite runout. Fortunately that section of the climb is by far the easiest, you barely need your hands at all by that point. Feb 19, 2014
Eli Delventhal
San Francisco, CA
  5.7 PG13
[Hide Comment] Fun pretty simple slab route. A few slight challenge moves but overall quite straightforward. The final push to the anchor is a bit too far, would be nice to have another bolt. Oct 18, 2020
A. Roberts
Boulder, CO
 
[Hide Comment] If anyone wants to add a bolt to this feel free. All bolts/pitons were placed with a hand drill, and it started raining about 1/2 way up, so I didn't want to stop to place another bolt on the upper easy slab. Feb 22, 2021