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Routes in Pixie Boulder

Monkey Gone to Heaven V3 6A
Pixie Dust V1 5
Pixie Problem V1 5
Pixie Slab Center V-easy 3
Pixie Slab Left V0- 4-
Pixie Slab Right V-easy 3
Skimbles V6 7A
Snappa V3 6A
Velouria V0 4
Womb, The V-easy 3
Type: Boulder, 15 ft
FA: Robert Miramontes
Page Views: 944 total, 9/month
Shared By: C Miller on Apr 27, 2009
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Occupied Campsite Rule In Effect! Details

Description

Start the same as Monkey Gone to Heaven but stay low and make a powerful gaston move to link into the start of Pixie Dust and then finish up the fun moves of that problem. For more value continue right and then down along the lip to finish as per Monkey Gone to Heaven which may not make it any harder but will certainly add to the pump.

  • This problem isn't listed in the Joshua Tree Bouldering Guide but is an obvious line with some good moves that's worth a go when in the area.

Location

North side of the boulder.

Protection

Pad

Photos

Jerry Tseng
  V4
Jerry Tseng  
  V4
  • *I agree with "nds". If going according to the photo on this page, I would say it's closer to a v4.

If following the guidebook's line, then I would say it's much closer to the v6 grade.
I finished the v4(?) variation and am looking to complete the v6 line illustrated by the guidebook. The v4 variant is still a fun route to climb. Feb 20, 2015
nds
Oceanside, Ca
  V6
nds   Oceanside, Ca
  V6
Since the line is more or less an eliminate, the holds used would be pretty specific. The newest guidebook shows this line continuing form the "bear hug" to make a large throw out right to the lip. There is also a small incut just under the lip. From there you finish up Monkeys Gone to Heaven. This method seems more in line with the v6 grade. Finishing up Pixie Dust would put it in the V4 range. Just my 2 cents. Jan 21, 2015
Muff
 
Muff  
 
Cool problem if you want to see what a hard boulder feels like while being close to the ground. Kinda silly, kinda fun. I wouldn't drive out of my way to get to this thing but if you're in Indian Cove and have some time to kill give it a shot since its literally right next to the road. Dec 15, 2010
RTM
RTM  
Named after John Wesales' cat. May 1, 2009