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Electrica
5.11+ PG13,
Trad, Sport, 130 ft (39 m),
Avg: 3.7 from 35
votes
FA: Drew Bedford, Conrad Anker 1987
Utah
> Southwest Utah
> Zion NP
> Cerberus Gendarme
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures
***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Description
A bolted face! Start 5 ft left of dire wolf and follow a meandering bolt line on thin edges. Bring you're edging shoes for this one. More technical than pumpy. Resist the urge to grab the bolts for balance.
Location
This route is long and the anchors are 20 ft higher than the end of the hard climbing. There are two options for descent. Option A is to rap to the anchors of dire wolf, 30 ft down and 10 ft to the right, then rap from there to the ground (a 60 will just barely make it). Option B is to use two ropes.
Protection
12'ish quickdraws, 1 small piece (finger size) to protect the beginning.
![You're in the clear above the third bolt. Prepare to sh*t your pants between the second and third though. Its a pretty big whip if you don't make the clip. A strong head game is needed for this route.]()
[Hide Photo] You're in the clear above the third bolt. Prepare to sh*t your pants between the second and third though. Its a pretty big whip if you don't make the clip. A strong head game is needed for this route.
![The balance intensive traverse. P.C: Brooks Gunderson - 12/2018]()
[Hide Photo] The balance intensive traverse. P.C: Brooks Gunderson - 12/2018
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Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
EDIT 2/15/12
New anchor per Conrad at the final ledge..Now possible to Rap all the way with a single sixty, be careful it is VERY close Oct 14, 2009
las Vegans, the cosmic void
Enjoy and take the whip, this route is stellar. Mar 2, 2016
The face climbing is really enjoyable. When you have good feet, you may not have any hands. Expect sustained ninja moves from bottom to top. The focus and precision required may be mentally taxing. May be harder if you are under 6 feet. Felt like solid 11+ for the onsight in its present state. Jan 2, 2017
SLC
Fucken Zion
Salt Lake City, UT
Springdale / Zion UT / Moab