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Routes in Meilee Area

13 Men V2 5+
Ace in the Hole V2 5+
Breathless V2-3 5+
Desperate Hours V2+ 5+
Faided, Fat, Greedy Woman V4 6B
Meilee V3-4 6A+
Nightmare Alley V1- 5-
She had nothing to do with it V6- 7A
Sudden Fear V1 5
Windwalker V7 7A+
Worst Idea Of The Century Crack V5 6C
Type: Boulder, 18 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,599 total, 15/month
Shared By: Rob Riggleman on Apr 25, 2009
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Sit-start under the steep arete just left of Sudden Fear. Make a few powerful moves to get established on a crimp just right of the arĂȘte, set up, and throw for a dish around the corner. If I ever stick that move I'll add more details about the summit.

Location

Left side of the Sudden Fear boulder; follow the trail down and left from the Meilee boulder, this problem is on the far end of the obvious boulder right of the trail.

Protection

Pad

Photos

steve edwards
SLC, UT
steve edwards   SLC, UT
A flexing jug in Santa Barbara, impossible! The massive jug on the low traverse has been flexing since the mid 90s as is still there, and usable, so it's possible to get lucky. Give it a LONG time after rain. In SB, stuff soaks up water and can hold onto it for weeks, maybe months (the mouth had an entire unclimbable season after '95--record rain year). We almost never pulled off holds when completely dry. Soon after rain, however, and almost everything up there is suspect. The rock is like a sponge. Mar 6, 2014
It's been forever since I've been on this thing but if I remember correctly you sit-start where it's obvious, reach up to a high right, get a foot up, left hand on the arete and bump it out onto the other face and then move around the corner. Basically, the original problem (Rick's way) went around the arete almost right off the bat. Small edges and feet, not a fun fall with that tombstone behind you.

That straight up way looks cool too, it's just not how we did it.

ps your welcome Dec 4, 2012
Tim King
  V6
Tim King  
  V6
Bob: on that recent SB bouldering video I saw you say something about She Had Nothing To Do With It going up the left of the arete? Just curious how to go about it as the only way I've ever been able to climb it was similar to how it was done in the video (low start, move to the leftmost jugs on face, then throw for the slanted pocket out left to top out).

ps Thanks for the sweet old school pics! Dec 2, 2012