She had nothing to do with it

Bob: on that recent SB bouldering video I saw you say something about She Had Nothing To Do With It going up the left of the arete? Just curious how to go about it as the only way I've ever been able to climb it was similar to how it was done in the video (low start, move to the leftmost jugs on face, then throw for the slanted pocket out left to top out).

ps Thanks for the sweet old school pics! Dec 2, 2012

It's been forever since I've been on this thing but if I remember correctly you sit-start where it's obvious, reach up to a high right, get a foot up, left hand on the arete and bump it out onto the other face and then move around the corner. Basically, the original problem (Rick's way) went around the arete almost right off the bat. Small edges and feet, not a fun fall with that tombstone behind you.

That straight up way looks cool too, it's just not how we did it.

ps your welcome Dec 4, 2012

A flexing jug in Santa Barbara, impossible! The massive jug on the low traverse has been flexing since the mid 90s as is still there, and usable, so it's possible to get lucky. Give it a LONG time after rain. In SB, stuff soaks up water and can hold onto it for weeks, maybe months (the mouth had an entire unclimbable season after '95--record rain year). We almost never pulled off holds when completely dry. Soon after rain, however, and almost everything up there is suspect. The rock is like a sponge. Mar 6, 2014