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Once-ler

5.9+ PG13, Trad, 140 ft (42 m),  Avg: 1 from 1 vote
FA: EFR,Geir Hundal,'09
Arizona > Southern Arizona > Mt Lemmon (Sant… > Mt Lemmon (Cata… > 2 - Bear Canyon > Chessman Area > 7 - Lorax & Ball Return
Access Issue: Fire Closure Details

Description

Slightly spicy climbing on good gear and relatively easy rock leads to an airy finish on the right arete.

Location

Located on a formation called the Lorax. Work around the right side of the Knight then up slabs to the second fin of rock. Starts in the center of the face at the toe of the formation. Follows cracks and seams that stay right of the main buttress. At a spot where two seams make an X work left then up to bolted face. Route finished to the left of the arete. The high bolt is for Hyrax.

Protection

Standard rack of singles to blue Camalot and a few bolts.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Greg leading like a boss. I would have crapped my pants four separate times leading this. I exceeded the weight limit for lots of the holds too. Very cool tower climb.
[Hide Photo] Greg leading like a boss. I would have crapped my pants four separate times leading this. I exceeded the weight limit for lots of the holds too. Very cool tower climb.
Route starts below area shaded by roofs on the left.  Follow cracks and seams out right from the lower roof to an X then move a bit left and up to bolted face.  Climber in the photo is on Hyrax.
[Hide Photo] Route starts below area shaded by roofs on the left. Follow cracks and seams out right from the lower roof to an X then move a bit left and up to bolted face. Climber in the photo is on Hyrax.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

1Eric Rhicard
Tucson
  5.9+
[Hide Comment] Cleaned a 400 lb. block off of Hyrax yesterday that everyone had climbed on. It went right down the belay gully and made a real mess of it. We are a little worried that pulling the rope after the rappel might cause loose stuff to hit people so we suggest moving up and right to the base of Bowling For Bikers and Rocky Road before pulling your rap lines. You can then rap from there. Apr 29, 2009