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Black Wall Route

5.7 PG13, Trad, 3 pitches,  Avg: 2.7 from 12 votes
FA: unknown
New Jersey > a. NorthWest > Delaware Water… > Mt.Tammany > h. The Black Wall

Description

Pitch 1: This route uses the same first pitch as ‘Valhalla’.
Pitch 2: Out of the belay follow the slanting corner on the left side of the discolored “Black Wall”. Climb through the overhanging section to another overhanging roof. Belay here.
Pitch 3: Climb around the roof on its right side past a small crack to the top.

Variations:
Variation 1: Shades of Death 5.8 PG/R
Variation 2: Death Ledges 5.7 PG/R
Variation 3: Valhalla 5.10d PG/R
Variation 4: Heart of Darkness 5.10a PG/R

Location

Start at a shallow groove 20' right of the right end or the Cheatstone block.

Protection

2 sets of nuts, small to large cams up to 3". hexes, lots of 2' slings

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Me on lead, Tyler with the camera skills
[Hide Photo] Me on lead, Tyler with the camera skills
Black Wall; Mt. Tammany, Delaware Water Gap
[Hide Photo] Black Wall; Mt. Tammany, Delaware Water Gap
A bird has made a nest in the underhangs along the hiker's path this year (2020). Keep your eye open as you approach the black wall as you are hiking uphill
[Hide Photo] A bird has made a nest in the underhangs along the hiker's path this year (2020). Keep your eye open as you approach the black wall as you are hiking uphill
White route is the standard route. Picture was taken well downhill from start.
[Hide Photo] White route is the standard route. Picture was taken well downhill from start.
This boring photo shows the start of the route Black Wall which begins in the inside corner on the left.
[Hide Photo] This boring photo shows the start of the route Black Wall which begins in the inside corner on the left.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

zxcv
 
[Hide Comment] This is actually a good route for the area as the exposure and moves are both enjoyable. The crux pitch (2nd) can easily feel harder than 5.7 unless you consistently look for stemming opportunities, which are there. Proper stemming brings the grade into the 5.7+ range as the overhanging right hand wall makes the route strenuous regardless.

Although the huge ledge on top of the 2nd pitch looks inviting, neither myself nor my partner find it a comfortable belay area and tend to climb directly to the Truimverate bolts or up an offwidth to top out. In either case, communication can be a real problem as highway noise decrease audibility of calls and rope drag makes pulling signals difficult to read. Plan ahead for this and enjoy the route.
Chris Loebsack stemming up the Black Wall
May 18, 2011
Larry S
Easton, PA
  5.7
[Hide Comment] This is a great route! Overhanging jugs and stemming on P2 are not to be missed. P1 looks like it can have some fun variations. For an easy 1st pitch, stay left when you can. We ended the second pitch and belayed on an uncomfortable ledge under the final roof and had a short third pitch involving a battle with a cedar. I had no trouble sewing this thing up, i'd call it G-rated for the hard sections, PG for the easier. Apr 27, 2013
Larry S
Easton, PA
  5.7
[Hide Comment] Repeated this route again and with spring hitting it's becoming a safari on p2. With some gardening to remove the vegetation this would be a very good climb. May 5, 2013
Larry S
Easton, PA
  5.7
[Hide Comment] Cleaned this route today while climbing it. The safari i mentioned above on P2 is taken care of, no more bush in your face every 8 feet, and no battle with a little birch tree and pricker bush at the crux. P1 had a bunch of grass and dirt removed, revealing a number of giant bucket holds. I was cleaning while going up though, so a good rain might be needed to get the dirt I was raining down cleaned up. May 25, 2013
joeforte
palmerton, pa
[Hide Comment] Thanks Larry! Great to hear I'm not the only one gardening up there! Oct 1, 2014