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Routes in The Rubik's Cube

Kittens S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Blue Roof T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C1
Fancy Lads T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Genuine Risk T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
High Over Camp T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Trial and Error T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Trad, Sport, 100 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 827 total · 8/month
Shared By: Jon Richard on Apr 22, 2009
Admins: Dave Hug

You & This Route

2 Opinions

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This is a high quality line with great movement on solid rock.

P1 (5.10c): Follow bolt line to a roof with anchors. This is a great pitch by itself and many people only do this pitch.

P2 (5.11d or 5.9 C1) Pull the roof on crimps and sidepulls to good incut flakes protected by bolts. The step slightly right into a Flared crack with good jams in the back of it. Exit the crack left at the top on good edges.


Left of the dental bill and right of the the Blue Roof.


14 draws and two cams (#1, #2, or #3 BD) if you do it as one pitch. Otherwise the 1st pitch is 7 QD + anchor.


Bitter sweet, being that's its closed,stirs some strong sentiment in a lot of folks and yes "Fancy Lads" is a cool route. Jan 5, 2013
anchorage, alaska
JBroom   anchorage, alaska
The first pitch is absolutely classic and is one of the best of it's grade in So Ill Jan 19, 2011