[Hide Comment] easy enough and faster to do as 1 picth... i would not trust tree at end of p1. big bro #1 is bomber in huge horizontal crack 20 ft from top. Apr 28, 2009

[Hide Comment] I never tried it as one pitch, good idea. The trees and rodos are not to be trusted based on personal experience. As for the 5.4 rating, according to YDS it's a 5.3, especially considering the angle and the ENORMOUS jugs. Aug 18, 2009

[Hide Comment] Great warm up climb or first climb if you have never been to the DWG. Looking forward to the Rib Cage variation next trip. Definite two rope repel. Oct 10, 2011

[Hide Comment] Rib Cage Var. felt more exposed then the standard rib- was 5.6 according to the guide. Different/awkward movement, which made the variation exciting and a fun change up. Interesting movement to gain the Rib Cage. Hand size gear especially (2)#3 BD cams for the large horizontal crack. Apr 17, 2012

[Hide Comment] There are bolted rap anchors at the midpoint belay and the very top. If you do it in one pitch a 60m just makes it. I'm not sure if you can rap this with one rope (we had a fixed rap line on Triumverate), it may involve some 5.easy downclimbing. Apr 27, 2013

[Hide Comment] You start this route nearer the trail level, don't go up onto the ledge where Triumvirate starts.

60 Meter rope raps don't REALLY make it from the bolted rap station on P1, it's really really close, maybe with some rope stretch, just be CAREFUL. 70's will definitely make it to the bottom from P1 Oct 28, 2013

[Hide Comment] if you rap climbers left off the ledge with the bolts, you'll make it with a 60 to the raised platform above the trail... at least my 60 makes in no problem. If you rap up the way you climbed, you'll probably run out of rope and risk a bad swing. It's definitely not a good rap line, but I do like being able to get down w/o carrying a second rope. Oct 29, 2013

[Hide Comment] Loved this route. It was 10 degrees and the east rising sun made it feel like 40. Did this route Solo lead climb with Wren Soloist. I am not a expert at rating but after the 1st belay station, the traverse left to get from under the overhang made this more difficult for me. As a solo climber i took it slow and did it in 4 pitches. I was surprised it was rated a 5.3. I will have to do some others here in the Gap solo. The protection all seemed a bit shaky for me, stone flaked at cams. I depended mostly on nuts in the far right crack.




Dec 13, 2013

[Hide Comment] Jonah - If you go up the face on P2, it's 5.easy (it's so leaned in it can be done without putting your hands on the rock) but the gear is more sparse. Sounds like the gear in the corner pulled you in. Dec 18, 2013

[Hide Comment] Started 2014 with the return to DWG. Went fresh with the Rib again and did far left at the outskirt for more slab climb and the large crack. Made it more of a 5.6 and some fun moves. Great warm up for what was to come next. Got one of my 2 ropes on 2 rope repel caught so bailed on it, went to do a few other climbs, came back at the end of the day and ascended this climb with 10 to 20 foot run outs in about 20 minutes from ground up and back to the ground.
Mar 18, 2014

[Hide Comment] We also went out leftish of the corner and up the crack in the middle, which I know made it slightly harder and much better than staying in the grassy chigger infested corner. This route was more fun with better moves than triumverate. Aug 18, 2014

[Hide Comment] More just a guide for parking to go to the Triumverate wall; somebody mentioned you could park at a small emergency vehicle off the weigh station underpass and when I returned to my car I found a maintenance vehicle but thankfully the guy was nice about it otherwise I may have gotten a ticket/towed. Easiest place to park is the wider shoulder area off the highway right before the boulder field if you're coming in that direction or the first lot. This was my first trad climb so I only did the first pitch, 5/27/19, also couldn't get one of my nuts back about 20 feet up so lucky you! Also I left an additional rap ring at the 1st pitch belay station so now it has 2. A 70 meter rope will be just enough to rappel from the first pitch down May 26, 2019

[Hide Comment] The bolted anchors on the route are in bad shape. They are 2" plated steel wedge bolts, that are showing rust and are placed with about 1" of stud sticking out. Nov 3, 2019

[Hide Comment] Someone has replaced the bad bolts at the top. They look solid now....brand spanking new. Apr 16, 2020

[Hide Comment] Easy climb with good views and a great intro for those new to trad.

Two raps needed to reach the ground if climbing with single rope. From the top of the first pitch rap ring, rappel left with a sixty meter rope to reach the ground. Do not rappel right, as it exposes you to a bad swing if you slip. May 15, 2020

[Hide Comment] The pitch 1 bolted anchors are brand new they dont have chains but they have rap rings. Dec 9, 2020

[Hide Comment] Easy, peezy, lemon squeezy. Might as well just do it in one pitch and save some time. The second pitch you can mostly just sling off the tree and bush so you don't really need much gear anyways.. May 4, 2021

[Hide Comment] As others have stated, you can rap this route in two rappels with a 60m rope. On the second rappel, lower off the climber's left side of the ledge. You'll end up on the ledge above the start of triumvirate. You can walk off climber's right from here. Sep 6, 2022

[Hide Comment] Realizing only after having led it many times that I was doing the second pitch “wrong” by staying in the corner to the top. Seems like a lot of people get sucked in there due to more gear but try climbing the face in the center above that horizontal break that fits a three or four. It makes the climb so classic! Jan 28, 2023