Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: 1949 Nicholas Clifford & PMC Members
Page Views: 7,227 total · 62/month
Shared By: Northeast Mountain Guiding on Apr 21, 2009
Admins: SMarsh

You & This Route

42 Opinions

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This route has more mistakes, bailing and lost climbers than any other route at the NJ Gap. Pay attention and follow the route line. Don't be deceived by its rating. Many variations have been done around the solid line.

Pitch 1: Climb weaknesses up the center of the face. After a minor chimney, step right to a belay.
Pitch 2: Climb up almost to the large chimney (Cryptic Chimney) where an optional belay provides an opportunity for photos. Then traverse straight out left with a small ceiling below. At the end of the upper ceiling, climb up to a cedar tree, where there are usually slings for a double-rope rappel.


Very easy to see, mid-wall and look for the small chimney.


Pro is VERY good on this route, nice small chimney about 60' up, protect with a #8-#10 nut before climbing.
Englewood, CO
tscupp   Englewood, CO
Very fun route. I remember using a whole bunch of nuts in the chimney. The vegetation detracts from the aesthetics of the route, but I think it lessens in the fall if you want good pictures. Also, the 2nd pitch is pretty easy but airy. Apr 10, 2010
Larry S
Easton, PA
Larry S   Easton, PA
Easy and lots of fun. Optional 2nd belay makes for some good photos and keeps things close enough that you can still hear your second over the sound of the highway below. I only placed tricams (pink-purple) and cams up to BD #3, but you could protect it reasonably well with up to a #2. Ends at bolts and rings next to a tree about 20 feet from the very top. You NEED 2 ropes to get back down. Jun 29, 2010
Josh Smethers
Malvern, pa
  5.4 PG13
Josh Smethers   Malvern, pa
  5.4 PG13
FUN route and even better when climbed on the direct veriation pulling a juggy roof with heal hook! (Standard var.)Suggest making the first belay in the corner just before the airy left traverse, which makes for a longer first pitch (extend all slings to prevent any rope drag). Oct 10, 2011
Very good route to get familiar with the wall and take a look at the area from the top. We climbed it as a two pitch climb. The 2nd pitch is all about the roof, than you can rappel form the bolts that are by the tree and are easy to locate. On the 1st pitch we used mainly nuts, on the 2nd pitch mainly cams. Two ropes to rappel.

Oct 1, 2012
Bronx, NY
Southey   Bronx, NY
My partner led this one, it was his second trad lead ever, and he flew up no problem. I don't know how this route is a 5.4, or how it has good ratings. It was way to easy for most of the climb, and boring. We had a 70m, so just ran it all the way to the top in one shot (brought a second rope up to use for the rappel, you CANNOT get down with one 70m rope). May 16, 2013
Ian Colquhoun
New Jersey
Ian Colquhoun   New Jersey
Fun route, although very overgrown and full of chiggers (itched for solid 2 weeks afterward and needed to clean all my gear.)
The climbing is easy and uninspiring, although the exposure on P2 more than makes up for it. Aug 18, 2014
Adam Gellman
Jersey City/Burlington VT
Adam Gellman   Jersey City/Burlington VT
Pro is really good on this climb. Dont be scared away by the Pg-13 rating as it is not runout. really fun second pitch. Double rope rappel from the pitch 2 anchors (bolts) Jun 20, 2016
Larry S
Easton, PA
Larry S   Easton, PA
The advice Brandon gives below is potentially dangerous. From the anchors atop triumvirate, two 60m ropes reach the ground with little to spare. I estimate 180 feet from anchors to ground. A single 70m rope will leave you 65 feet up.

If you only have one rope, carefully rappel down The Rib, which has mid wall anchors. Dec 5, 2017