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Routes in Upper Mother's Buttress

3-D T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Crab Head Poseidon God S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Doppelgänger T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Flight Without Wings T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Goremanghast T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
In Search of Don Juan T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Lady Boy Show T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Questions and Answers T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Steerpike T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sugi T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Super Dyke T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Throbbing Gristle Project T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Unknown 5.9+ T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
White Cross aka Titus Groan T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Sport, 100 ft
FA: Jesse Zacher, Matt Seymour
Page Views: 103 total, 1/month
Shared By: Jesse Zacher on Apr 21, 2009
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This route is unique in that it traverses almost more than it gains elevation. Fun climbing on a dike that splits the wall. Mostly good rock. This route was done ground up.

Location

Route is the furthest left route on Upper Mother's. Keep walking down past Titus Groan to the tip of the Buttress. There is a Ledge where the White Dike starts. Follow bolts and gear to a rap station. Single rope rap gets you to the ground.

Protection

Quick Draws, 2-3 #4 Camalots, medium nut, and a finger and hand piece which is optional.

Photos

Matthew Seymour
1996 Dodge Van, USA
Matthew Seymour   1996 Dodge Van, USA
This route is good practice for the runnout moves on the Scenic Cruise peg traverse. Similar idea but harder and with bolts.

Also, you need a competent second due to the traversing nature of the climb. Apr 24, 2009