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Routes in F Crags

Beach Boy T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Dune Buggy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Easy Street T,S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Holy Braille, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
More Madness T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Reefer Madness T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Slab Happy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Under the Influence. S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Under the Spell S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 700 ft, 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: Paul Ross Steve Radalch Patrick Moe. April 19th 2009
Page Views: 2,742 total · 24/month
Shared By: USBRIT Ross on Apr 21, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

This route has some classic delicate slab climbing the middle two pitches being quite sustained from the 5.8 to the 5.10 range.This climb after the 4th pitch joins onto the upper easy pitches of Reefer Madness.From here one can continue up for about another 700' to the summit of the formation.

P1)Follow the Slab /Groove up to the right to double anchors below a steep slab.Some cam pro. 5.6R.160'
P2) Just left of the belay climb with difficulty passed two bolts.The climbing stays interesting . Follow a total of 5 bolts trending slightly right to double anchors below another steeper wave.5.10/5.8R 180'.
P3)Straight up from the belay passing two bolts at 5.9+ ,continue at about 5.8R . At the 4th and last bolt a 70' runout at 5.6 to double anchors. 5.9+ 200'.
P4)Straight up at about 5.3 to double anchors 160'.(Junction with the 1780'Reefer Madness route). From here one can climb several 200' 5.3/4 pitches to the fine summit of this massive formation.
See RM description.

Location

Located on the north side of the Reefer Madness formation.Scramble from the top of the brown wave into the entrance of the Slot canyon on the north side of the Reefer Madness formation. Just as one enters a Slab /Groove trending up to the right is on the left side, this is the first pitch.

Protection

Cams .5" to #2 Camelot. Slings ,quick draws, two 60m ropes

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