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Routes in Red Dragon

Acquaintance, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Addiction Friction S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bobcat Martini S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Crown Jewel S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Crowned Fool S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Foaming Fox S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Friend of the Devil S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Humblebee S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Pet Meds S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Soul Seller S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Squirrel Talk S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Straight To The Gullet S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wings Of Change [Open Project] S 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: ccox
Page Views: 2,960 total, 28/month
Shared By: Colin Cox on Apr 20, 2009
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

Climb cracklike feature past a couple bolts, then bust left along a steep flake with positive incut edges. Crank up into the steep laybacks of the dihedral. Stem with precision as laybacks vanish and edges appear, just as the angle eases. This one's not over til it's over. One last steep slab move threatens to tip you backward off yer barstool. Pour some out for the Bobcat if you want to send this one. Very good.

Location

Left end of shaded grotto. Has a shared start with Squirrel Talk.

Protection

Bolts to chains.
Jon Nelson
Bellingham, WA
Jon Nelson   Bellingham, WA  
Wow, that's an amazing story. Thanks Colin. An actual 'bobcat in a bar' incident! But sad to hear about the man's ear and the end of the bobcat. The poor fellow just wanted to enjoy his martini in peace, without all the paparazzi. Feb 3, 2017
Colin Cox  
 
Hey Jon. The Bobcat name comes from an incident that occurred around 2006 or 7. There was a rabies outbreak passing through the wildlife around Northern AZ. Reports of aggressive animals circulated. Finally, in Cottonwood,AZ., a bobcat walked into a bar and started owning the place. He or she was fairly calm until all the loud mouth patrons started trying to get cell phone footage. One man's camera captured the bobcat suddenly launching through the air, attacking his head in a flash of violence. It partially detached his ear. The sherrif was called and the Bobcat was blasted to death as he walked out into the street. Tragic. I named the route in honor of the Bobcat. A couple other route names up there refer to the rabies outbreak that was occurring when I established the routes. Feb 2, 2017
Jon Nelson
Bellingham, WA
Jon Nelson   Bellingham, WA  
Beautiful, powerful-looking route.

I wonder about the bobcat name here. Was there any inspiration from the plethora of bobcat names at Index Washington? I realize that Index is little known, but they have a definite thing for bobcat names there. Jan 30, 2017
Abel Jones
Bishop, ca
 
Abel Jones   Bishop, ca
 
A must do on the Flagstaff 12c circuit Apr 21, 2012
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
 
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
 
A stunning and powerful pitch. One of Flags hidden gems. Oct 18, 2009