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5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 2.8 from 8
votes
Routes in Base Routes
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Ahab T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Bluffer, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Captain Hook, Left T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Captain Hook, Right T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Delectable Pinnacle, Right T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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El Cap Tree T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C1-2 |
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Footstool, Right, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Freeblast T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Gollum T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Hardly Pinnacle T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Indubious Battle T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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La Arista T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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La Cosita, Left T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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La Cosita, Right T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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La Escuela T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Little John, Left T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Little John, Right T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Mark of Art T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Masquerade/Call Me Ishmael S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Moby Dick T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Moby Dick, Left T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Party Mix T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Peter Left T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Peter Pan T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Pine Line T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Pterodactyl Terrace, Left T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Pterodactyl Terrace, Right T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Reeds Leads T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Rock Neurotic S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Sacherer Cracker T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Salathe (pitch 1) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Seedy Leads T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Short But Thin T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Simulkrime T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Slack ( center), The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Slack, Left, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Sparkling Give-away T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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TRON S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c PG13 |
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West Buttress (pitch 1&2) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
Order Wrong?
Sort Routes
| Type: | Trad, 400 ft, 4 pitches |
| FA: | Charlie Raymond, Wally Reed, 1958 FFA Pat Ament and Larry Dalke 1967 |
| Page Views: | 1,422 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Alexey Zelditch on Apr 20, 2009 |
| Admins: | M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions
Details
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15.
Always check the Yosemite website Peregrine Closure page at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warning due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Always check the Yosemite website Peregrine Closure page at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warning due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
First or one of the first Yosemite free 5.11. Later was downgraded to 10d, since block of rock fell off leaving place for hand jam - making crux sequence shorter.
I found this climb good and clean and underrated in quality in Reid Book. At least one star out of 3 would be fair.
Pithch 1: Still hard 10d off the ground: first 15 feet with potential decking if your gear placement is bad. fingertips, figers and good foot work bring you to good handjam. After that climb relatively easy wide cracks which become higher up 5.8 chimney. 150feet. 2 bolts Anker ( shared with Sacherer)
Pitch 2: ( link p2&3 in the book) Start easy climbing inside of the chimney (5.5) and after 70-80 feet you reach the ledge where you have the choice: a) climb wide crack in the corner or b) climb crack in the left wall with thin start. I climbed left one which can be rated 5.8- 5.9. 150 feet. Natural ancor.
[ Added Feb 2015:- climbed right variation of this pitch all the way from ledge to belay of pitch3. Way more classic , but little harder- probably goes at 5.10]
Pitch 3: Start with easy climbing to 5.7 chimney. Clinb to the top of the Pinnacle to new 2 rappel bolts.
We rappel down and left to top (third pitch) of La Esuella with one 70m rope. And from there tree more rappels to the ground.
From the top of the Slack the other option to rappel down "Slack Left" with 2 ropes.
Also you can use this chance and check ( you can TR) last pitch of Slack Left - 10b Chimney/Flare/OW - older brother of Ahab
I found this climb good and clean and underrated in quality in Reid Book. At least one star out of 3 would be fair.
Pithch 1: Still hard 10d off the ground: first 15 feet with potential decking if your gear placement is bad. fingertips, figers and good foot work bring you to good handjam. After that climb relatively easy wide cracks which become higher up 5.8 chimney. 150feet. 2 bolts Anker ( shared with Sacherer)
Pitch 2: ( link p2&3 in the book) Start easy climbing inside of the chimney (5.5) and after 70-80 feet you reach the ledge where you have the choice: a) climb wide crack in the corner or b) climb crack in the left wall with thin start. I climbed left one which can be rated 5.8- 5.9. 150 feet. Natural ancor.
[ Added Feb 2015:- climbed right variation of this pitch all the way from ledge to belay of pitch3. Way more classic , but little harder- probably goes at 5.10]
Pitch 3: Start with easy climbing to 5.7 chimney. Clinb to the top of the Pinnacle to new 2 rappel bolts.
We rappel down and left to top (third pitch) of La Esuella with one 70m rope. And from there tree more rappels to the ground.
From the top of the Slack the other option to rappel down "Slack Left" with 2 ropes.
Also you can use this chance and check ( you can TR) last pitch of Slack Left - 10b Chimney/Flare/OW - older brother of Ahab
Photos
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