The Slack ( center)
5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British
Type: | Trad, 400 ft, 4 pitches |
FA: | Charlie Raymond, Wally Reed, 1958 FFA Pat Ament and Larry Dalke 1967 |
Page Views: | 1,353 total · 12/month |
Shared By: | Alexey on Apr 20, 2009 |
Admins: | M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
March 1- July 15
Always check the Yosemite website Peregrine Closure pagenps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive.
Learn more about special status bird species in Yosemite National Park.
Glacier Point Apron is open to climbing, but the Park Service's website does not recommend climbing there ";due to recent and ongoing rockfall."
Always check the Yosemite website Peregrine Closure pagenps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive.
Learn more about special status bird species in Yosemite National Park.
Glacier Point Apron is open to climbing, but the Park Service's website does not recommend climbing there ";due to recent and ongoing rockfall."
Description
First or one of the first Yosemite free 5.11. Later was downgraded to 10d, since block of rock fell off leaving place for hand jam - making crux sequence shorter.
I found this climb good and clean and underrated in quality in Reid Book. At least one star out of 3 would be fair.
Pithch 1: Still hard 10d off the ground: first 15 feet with potential decking if your gear placement is bad. fingertips, figers and good foot work bring you to good handjam. After that climb relatively easy wide cracks which become higher up 5.8 chimney. 150feet. 2 bolts Anker ( shared with Sacherer)
Pitch 2: ( link p2&3 in the book) Start easy climbing inside of the chimney (5.5) and after 70-80 feet you reach the ledge where you have the choice: a) climb wide crack in the corner or b) climb crack in the left wall with thin start. I climbed left one which can be rated 5.8- 5.9. 150 feet. Natural ancor.
[ Added Feb 2015:- climbed right variation of this pitch all the way from ledge to belay of pitch3. Way more classic , but little harder- probably goes at 5.10]
Pitch 3: Start with easy climbing to 5.7 chimney. Clinb to the top of the Pinnacle to new 2 rappel bolts.
We rappel down and left to top (third pitch) of La Esuella with one 70m rope. And from there tree more rappels to the ground.
From the top of the Slack the other option to rappel down "Slack Left" with 2 ropes.
Also you can use this chance and check ( you can TR) last pitch of Slack Left - 10b Chimney/Flare/OW - older brother of Ahab
I found this climb good and clean and underrated in quality in Reid Book. At least one star out of 3 would be fair.
Pithch 1: Still hard 10d off the ground: first 15 feet with potential decking if your gear placement is bad. fingertips, figers and good foot work bring you to good handjam. After that climb relatively easy wide cracks which become higher up 5.8 chimney. 150feet. 2 bolts Anker ( shared with Sacherer)
Pitch 2: ( link p2&3 in the book) Start easy climbing inside of the chimney (5.5) and after 70-80 feet you reach the ledge where you have the choice: a) climb wide crack in the corner or b) climb crack in the left wall with thin start. I climbed left one which can be rated 5.8- 5.9. 150 feet. Natural ancor.
[ Added Feb 2015:- climbed right variation of this pitch all the way from ledge to belay of pitch3. Way more classic , but little harder- probably goes at 5.10]
Pitch 3: Start with easy climbing to 5.7 chimney. Clinb to the top of the Pinnacle to new 2 rappel bolts.
We rappel down and left to top (third pitch) of La Esuella with one 70m rope. And from there tree more rappels to the ground.
From the top of the Slack the other option to rappel down "Slack Left" with 2 ropes.
Also you can use this chance and check ( you can TR) last pitch of Slack Left - 10b Chimney/Flare/OW - older brother of Ahab
Photos
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