Connect with Facebook
All Locations >
California
> Yosemite NP
> Yosemite Valley
> Valley N Side
> B. El Capitan
> 1. Base Routes
> Southwest Base
> Slack to W Buttress
The Slack ( center)
5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 2.6 from 11
votes
Routes in The Slack to West Buttress
|
|
Captain Hook, Left T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
Captain Hook, Right T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
Delectable Pinnacle, Left T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
|
|
Delectable Pinnacle, Right T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
Indubious Battle T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
|
|
La Escuela T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
|
|
Mark of Art T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Peter Left T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Peter Pan T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Practice Nailing Route T A2+ |
|
|
Sacherer Cracker T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Short But Thin T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
|
|
Slack ( center), The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
|
|
Slack, Left, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
West Buttress (pitch 1&2) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
Order Wrong?
Sort Routes
| Type: | Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches |
| FA: | Charlie Raymond, Wally Reed, 1958 FFA Pat Ament and Larry Dalke 1967 |
| Page Views: | 2,140 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Alexey Zelditch on Apr 20, 2009 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Vicki Schwantes, Justin Johnsen |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: Latest updates on Covid and falcon closures.
Details
Please visit climbingyosemite.com/ for the latest information on visiting Yosemite.
Ongoing Issues:
Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15.
Always check the Yosemite website Peregrine Closure page at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warning due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Ongoing Issues:
Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15.
Always check the Yosemite website Peregrine Closure page at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warning due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
First or one of the first Yosemite free 5.11. Later was downgraded to 10d, since block of rock fell off leaving place for hand jam - making crux sequence shorter.
I found this climb good and clean and underrated in quality in Reid Book. At least one star out of 3 would be fair.
Pithch 1: Still hard 10d off the ground: first 15 feet with potential decking if your gear placement is bad. fingertips, figers and good foot work bring you to good handjam. After that climb relatively easy wide cracks which become higher up 5.8 chimney. 150feet. 2 bolts Anker ( shared with Sacherer)
Pitch 2: ( link p2&3 in the book) Start easy climbing inside of the chimney (5.5) and after 70-80 feet you reach the ledge where you have the choice: a) climb wide crack in the corner or b) climb crack in the left wall with thin start. I climbed left one which can be rated 5.8- 5.9. 150 feet. Natural ancor.
[ Added Feb 2015:- climbed right variation of this pitch all the way from ledge to belay of pitch3. Way more classic , but little harder- probably goes at 5.10]
Pitch 3: Start with easy climbing to 5.7 chimney. Clinb to the top of the Pinnacle to new 2 rappel bolts.
We rappel down and left to top (third pitch) of La Esuella with one 70m rope. And from there tree more rappels to the ground.
From the top of the Slack the other option to rappel down "Slack Left" with 2 ropes.
Also you can use this chance and check ( you can TR) last pitch of Slack Left - 10b Chimney/Flare/OW - older brother of Ahab
I found this climb good and clean and underrated in quality in Reid Book. At least one star out of 3 would be fair.
Pithch 1: Still hard 10d off the ground: first 15 feet with potential decking if your gear placement is bad. fingertips, figers and good foot work bring you to good handjam. After that climb relatively easy wide cracks which become higher up 5.8 chimney. 150feet. 2 bolts Anker ( shared with Sacherer)
Pitch 2: ( link p2&3 in the book) Start easy climbing inside of the chimney (5.5) and after 70-80 feet you reach the ledge where you have the choice: a) climb wide crack in the corner or b) climb crack in the left wall with thin start. I climbed left one which can be rated 5.8- 5.9. 150 feet. Natural ancor.
[ Added Feb 2015:- climbed right variation of this pitch all the way from ledge to belay of pitch3. Way more classic , but little harder- probably goes at 5.10]
Pitch 3: Start with easy climbing to 5.7 chimney. Clinb to the top of the Pinnacle to new 2 rappel bolts.
We rappel down and left to top (third pitch) of La Esuella with one 70m rope. And from there tree more rappels to the ground.
From the top of the Slack the other option to rappel down "Slack Left" with 2 ropes.
Also you can use this chance and check ( you can TR) last pitch of Slack Left - 10b Chimney/Flare/OW - older brother of Ahab
1 Comment