Type: Trad, 400 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Charlie Raymond, Wally Reed, 1958 FFA Pat Ament and Larry Dalke 1967
Page Views: 1,493 total · 13/month
Shared By: Alexey Zelditch on Apr 20, 2009
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

First or one of the first Yosemite free 5.11. Later was downgraded to 10d, since block of rock fell off leaving place for hand jam - making crux sequence shorter.
I found this climb good and clean and underrated in quality in Reid Book. At least one star out of 3 would be fair.

Pithch 1: Still hard 10d off the ground: first 15 feet with potential decking if your gear placement is bad. fingertips, figers and good foot work bring you to good handjam. After that climb relatively easy wide cracks which become higher up 5.8 chimney. 150feet. 2 bolts Anker ( shared with Sacherer)
Pitch 2: ( link p2&3 in the book) Start easy climbing inside of the chimney (5.5) and after 70-80 feet you reach the ledge where you have the choice: a) climb wide crack in the corner or b) climb crack in the left wall with thin start. I climbed left one which can be rated 5.8- 5.9. 150 feet. Natural ancor.
[ Added Feb 2015:- climbed right variation of this pitch all the way from ledge to belay of pitch3. Way more classic , but little harder- probably goes at 5.10]
Pitch 3: Start with easy climbing to 5.7 chimney. Clinb to the top of the Pinnacle to new 2 rappel bolts.

We rappel down and left to top (third pitch) of La Esuella with one 70m rope. And from there tree more rappels to the ground.

From the top of the Slack the other option to rappel down "Slack Left" with 2 ropes.
Also you can use this chance and check ( you can TR) last pitch of Slack Left - 10b Chimney/Flare/OW - older brother of Ahab

Location

Climb located just left from Sacherer Cracker and share the base and first pitch bolted anchors. You can go Sacherer to Slack with same gear you racked up for Sacherer

Protection

double from green Alien to #3. One each #4, #5, #6 (big gear for pitch 1 only)

Photos

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FA: Charlie Raymond, Wally Reed, 1958 Jan 21, 2012