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Routes in Band M (Opened Dec 2017)

3 Wogs T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bandit T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Butcher Block T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Finally Dunn T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
General Hospital A3
Heavy Weather Sailing T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Hercules S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
If Dogs Run Free T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Jungle Work T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Machina Ex Deus T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Malt Therapy T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Over Done T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Standard Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Understatement, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown Left of Hercules S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Way Radical T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 45 ft
FA: Doug Madara & Chris Noonan 1978
Page Views: 470 total · 4/month
Shared By: matthew ritter on Apr 20, 2009
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall, Jonathan Steitzer

You & This Route

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Access now starts on Rt 16 by Tangelwood Motel, not on Rt 113 Details


A thin steep crack with a few flexible and wafer thin face holds. Tread lightly. A tricky and possibly spooky start protected by a small nut, followed by fun overhanging face climbing and maybe a layback or two leads to a beautiful mantle move from a small left facing corner onto the slopey ledge; though bomber gear is at the climber's hip, a tall climber could hang a draw on the chains above from a jug for the security of a TR on the last moves.


Located on the far left hand side of Band-M are three short vertical cracks. Over Done is the left hand crack. Rappel from chains.


The gear is bomber if you are efficient and strong enough to place it. Bolt anchor and chains. Small to "suasage finger" size cams. A small nut is useful for the first moves off the boulder.


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john strand
southern colo
john strand   southern colo
9+, very nice climb Jun 16, 2010
Newmarket, NH
  5.10a PG13
nhclimber   Newmarket, NH
  5.10a PG13
light beers will help that paunch! Jun 15, 2010
Just so everyone knows the crux flexible flake in the middle of the route hads broken off, the remaining hold is very similar and doesnt really change the character of the route, the hold is just lower and much better bonded to the wall. Jun 15, 2010
awesome route, tricky but good gear just where you would need it. Jun 5, 2010
Newmarket, NH
  5.10a PG13
nhclimber   Newmarket, NH
  5.10a PG13
Great Route. Finally Done is classic and understated is great, if a little sandbagged Apr 22, 2009

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