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Routes in Monkey to Monk Cliff

Clearcut Beaver S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fear of the Facial S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Full Stainless Skivvies S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Smell the Glove S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
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Type: Sport, 120 ft
FA: Devlin Junker, Tom Helvie
Page Views: 133 total · 1/month
Shared By: Tom Helvie on Apr 20, 2009
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Protect Access in Owens River Gorge! Details

Description

Start in a short layback crack, up to low angle rock leading to the base of the dihedral. Layback up the dihedral to a tricky finish through the overlapping corners. Ends on a big ledge with anchors. It is possible to lower off with a 70 meter rope but it is very close and the climber must lower to the ledge to the left. There are intermediate anchors for using a shorter rope. Just climbing to these anchors is probably 5.8

Location

Located just right of Clearcut Beaver

Protection

16 bolts to mussy hook anchor

Photos

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Neil Kauffman
  5.11b
Neil Kauffman  
  5.11b
A good route, definitely worth getting on if you're in the area. Hosts features and movement akin to granite climbing, fun! Mar 6, 2015
Nice job Neil! Wasn't feeling the go juice on this one, nor was my partner. Kept going up and down at the crux and staring at those empty bolt holes wishing for a bolt in one. Didn't help that there were already bail biners from the last climber. Made it easy to give up my lead. Thought for sure my partner would clean it up for me. I gonna play the "still getting over the flue" card and save the "I'm just light" card for another day. The 2 routes on either side sure look like the real deal. Feb 1, 2018

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