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Beginner's Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Bolt Line S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bonehead Roof S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cold Turkey S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hippos on Parade S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hold Me aka The Move S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Lies and Propaganda S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Med Dose Madness S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Misdemeanor S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mom's Pancake S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Rhino Bucket S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tunnel Zone T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad
FA: Chris Hassig 1975
Page Views: 157 total, 1/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Apr 20, 2009
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Note: New route moratorium area Details

Description

I tend to bump down the stars a bit on the overgrown obscure trad climbs so i only gave this one star... If you like this kind of climbing however, you will be pleasantly surprised by enjoyable (if a little dirty) climbing with good protection...

Start by clipping the first bolt on Rinobuckets 5.10a or be a purest and pass it up... Break left following cracks along a shallow corner this is the line of Misdemeanor 5.10c... Just before the crux of Misdemeanor Reach left to a bomber flake looks loose but its solid... Keep heading left to another flake system with some vegetation growing out of it... Then up on laybacks and some easy face climbing... The original route headed up and left on a ledge below the roof on Bonehead Roof... I finished up and a little right to the anchor that Jim Shim put up for Misdemeanor... The gear on the last bit is a little more funky but take your time and look around for something good...

A bit filthy but really fun climbing...

Location

Between Bonehead Roof and Rinobuckets... Look for the cracks down lower and the Vegitated flakes up and left...

Protection

Well protected with a normal rack...

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lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
hahaha that works Jun 10, 2014
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
..or "bomber" like it is going to come out of the sky and hit you, lol. Jun 9, 2014
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
by "bomber" i meant it was a large hold that felt good to hold... glad its been removed if it was unsafe... Jun 9, 2014
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Lee, that "bomber" flake wiggled right out and is now laying in the trail below, awaiting being made into a step. There is another big undercling left in its place. Jun 9, 2014
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
For most, best enjoyed as a TR with nobody below you, at least in its present filthy state, but this section of wall has lots of cool holds, with flakes, edges and pockets. I am not sure I would call the gear "good" all the way, but there is some. Just remember that schist flakes are not granite, especially if they are held in by mud and moss. Jun 2, 2014
Ryan Barber
Rumney, NH
Ryan Barber   Rumney, NH
I'm gonna check this one out. I noticed the new book says "never done anymore" making it all the more desirable and curious for climbers like myself. Jun 18, 2011
Glenn Cilley
Laconia, NH
 
Glenn Cilley   Laconia, NH
 
Years back we use to top out from the big ledge on what is now the top of Med Dose May 22, 2010