Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Mack Johnson
Page Views: 1,216 total · 10/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Apr 20, 2009
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route

13 Opinions

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This would get 4 stars if it was 300 feet up but alas its a bit under exposed... The moves however are really cool and i recommend it to any strongish trad climbers looking for a new rumney adventure...

Climb up Left of Dog Biscuit in to the corner and get ready for the fun stuff... Stem up under the roof place some gear and get to it... There are a couple possible ways to do it, I jammed right out the Roof hand crack but you can also layback the corner of the roof heading left on smearing feet... Either way there are jugs all over the place toward the end... Exiting the route is pretty simple... You can anchor to a tree and belay from above and i think walking off is the easiest way down...

Video link: youtube.com/watch?v=KBTxpSI…


To the Right look for the large Cracked Roof left of Dog Biscuit... not hard to locate...


Regular rack... the guide says bring lots of hand sizes, id say just use them wisely... Anchor to a tree at the top.... there is a funky fixed anchor but i wouldn't recommend using it...


lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
Check out the video link... Apr 21, 2009
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
cool video lee, to bad the audio doesnt work, route looks fun Apr 21, 2009
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
Yeah, the soundtrack was white zombie... which i felt tied the whole piece together... maybe the proj will let me post directly some day and wont edit my content... Apr 21, 2009
Mike Thompson
Manchester NH
Mike Thompson   Manchester NH
nice route dude! that crack looks SICK! deffinately hitting that up when i get out there next :) and did you film that with your new nifty difty camera? :) Apr 21, 2009
Eli .
Eli .   GMC3500
This is a contender for the best non-adventurous trad route I've had the pleasure of climbing in Rumney. I'm not sure about using the holds in the seam, but the jams in the roof are incredible. Four stars, this route is badder than Michael Jackson in his prime.

Update: The questionable-at-best tat anchor has been replaced and is now some nice 1" nylon webbing with a waterknot and two biners. That will probably be good for a couple more seasons of abuse. Sep 28, 2015
Andy Casler
Plymouth, NH
Andy Casler   Plymouth, NH
Got on this last week and found myself totally inverted on perfect hand and foot jams, then stuffing a heel-toe cam by my head before shooting up to a jug. I'd consider this a Rumney classic due to its unique nature, g-rated protection and very fun movement. This route is just as good as it looks Apr 17, 2017