Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Mack Johnson and Dave Carl 1988
Page Views: 1,507 total · 12/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Apr 20, 2009 with improvements by Mack Johnson
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


17 Opinions

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Description

This would get 4 stars if it was 300 feet up but alas its a bit under exposed... The moves however are really cool and i recommend it to any strongish trad climbers looking for a new rumney adventure...

Climb up Left of Dog Biscuit in to the corner and get ready for the fun stuff... Stem up under the roof place some gear and get to it... There are a couple possible ways to do it, I jammed right out the Roof hand crack but you can also layback the corner of the roof heading left on smearing feet... Either way there are jugs all over the place toward the end... Exiting the route is pretty simple... You can anchor to a tree and belay from above and i think walking off is the easiest way down...

Video link: youtube.com/watch?v=KBTxpSI…

Location

To the Right look for the large Cracked Roof left of Dog Biscuit... not hard to locate...

Protection

Regular rack... the guide says bring lots of hand sizes, id say just use them wisely... Anchor to a tree at the top.... there is a funky fixed anchor but i wouldn't recommend using it...

Photos