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Trad and True
5.8+ YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British PG13
Avg: 2.6 from 23
votes
Routes in Slab Area
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A Wing and a Prayer S,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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All I Wanted was a Pepsi T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Bail on the Bulge S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Bars T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Battle of the Bulge S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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By Gully T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Deprived Child T,S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Deprived Direct T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Deprived Mikey S,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Direct Shock S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Dust Bowl Daze T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Frictionary T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Kemoslabee T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Mikey's Mantle S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Shits and Grins S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Shock Treatment S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Stars T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Stranger than Friction T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Stripes T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Summer Solstice T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Trad and True T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Winter Solstice T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | J. Jacobs and C. Hall, 1996 |
| Page Views: | 2,242 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Jody Jacobs on Apr 20, 2009 |
| Admins: | saxfiend |
Your Star Rating:
Description
On the FA the route was rap cleaned then led ground up. It still needs a good cleaning periodically, to get the loose dirt out of the gear placements and in the vertical seam section, since it gets runoff from the trail above.
You start at the far left end of the slab, just right of the mossy stuff. Climb straight up a ways to a horizontal crack that takes good gear, continue up past a vertical seam, then traverse right about 8' until you're under the obvious horizontal overlap. You can crawl under the overlap and place a couple of decent cams, then pull the overlap on nice small face holds, wander up the face above to a hidden #3.5 Friend or #3 Camalot on your left, then finish up the obvious thin crack through the bulge to the top. You can share the bolted anchor station with Pepsi.
You start at the far left end of the slab, just right of the mossy stuff. Climb straight up a ways to a horizontal crack that takes good gear, continue up past a vertical seam, then traverse right about 8' until you're under the obvious horizontal overlap. You can crawl under the overlap and place a couple of decent cams, then pull the overlap on nice small face holds, wander up the face above to a hidden #3.5 Friend or #3 Camalot on your left, then finish up the obvious thin crack through the bulge to the top. You can share the bolted anchor station with Pepsi.
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