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Slot Machine
5.8,
Trad, Sport, 70 ft (21 m),
Avg: 2.5 from 26
votes
FA: unknown
California
> High Desert
> Antelope Valley…
> Devil's Punchbowl
> S Area
> VD (Very Direct) Wall
Description
Scramble up to the alcove where Water Cracks (5.8) begins. Interesting and off-balance moves take you into the slot on the right. Climb the slot up to the top of the pinnacle on the right to find the first chain anchor for Tree Corner (5.8). This line entails a wide mix of climbing: face, on knobs and pockets, offwidth, stemming and lieback. This route is a little dirty and will result in sand and small rocks falling on your belayer. Slot Machine is easy for the grade, perhaps 5.7. It is well-enough bolted but you can place a couple #5 Camelots in the run-out sections, maybe even a #4. Rappel to descend or continue up Tree Corner.
Location
At the left end of VD wall, in an alcove to the right of the short slab.
Protection
6 bolts, bolted chain anchor
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La Crescenta, CA
Oakland, CA.
The last ~30' to the anchors has only 2 bolts (bolts #5 and 6), so expect a bit of runout. I would've liked a piece in between 5 and 6, and then between 6 and the anchor. The last move of the climb is a mantel to gain the anchor ledge. If you pitched off here, you'd probably hit the ledge below at bolt #6. PG-13 rating overall, would probably be too much for a newer 5.8-5.9 leader. Jun 17, 2013
The lieback was super positive and really the best part of the climb. Super fun.
Did the second pitch above that, which felt much harder (5.8)
But had 4 bolts (all old hangers) Mar 17, 2014
San Diego, ca