Type: Trad, 900 ft, 6 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Kent Lugbill, Glenn Randall, October, 1982
Page Views: 2,289 total · 19/month
Shared By: Ken Trout on Apr 16, 2009
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This route climbs directly to the morning sun side of the notch, up the central, hopefully easiest, crack system.

Above the notch, a 5.9 hand crack leads up to the summit plateau. Walk over to the summit tower and climb an easy crack tot he top.

The first ascent party did four pitches to the notch; 5.10 loose, 5.10 steep hand/fist crux, 5.9+, offwidth, and 5.9 hands. Lots of loose stuff.

Location

The northeast ridge of Candlestick has a notch formed by a rough spire. The East Face route climbs to this notch from the southeast side. We approached the saddle from the north and traversed under some shale cliffs until it was easier to get up to the start.

Protection

I'd take double cams from fingers to fist, and a #5. The third pitch squeeze might take a #6 too.

Rusty Kirkpatrick and I installed a rappel route down the East Face in 1987. Our goal was to find a route that avoided all the loose ledges on the route up. My old, stretched, double 9mm X 50m ropes didn't really make it to the last ledge on a blank slab. In the attached sketch, the final two bolt anchor I drilled is out left and up from the fist belay. I did not mark it because of uncertainty about where it is.

Photos

Trevor Bowman
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Trevor Bowman   Flagstaff, AZ
 
This is a cool adventure tower with no fixed anchors and minimal signs of passage on the ascent (the rap anchors are off route). While fairly big for a Wingate tower route, it is certainly not 900' of climbing as posted here.

The double rack was sufficient, and I used a #5 BD C4, but no #6 necessary. An extra #3 C4 would have been nice. A few smaller than finger sizes were useful to protect incipient systems adjacent to the mostly wide cracks you climb and for belay piece options.

A few thoughts on the route:
I felt that P1 was mostly pretty moderate, with a short bulge that was maybe 5.9. The topo shows P3 being a squeeze, and there is a nasty looking squeeze option up there, but the better bet seems the clean OW corner just right of the squeeze chimney, with an eventual traverse left across a short face and a squeeze finish up a tight flare with thin hands in the back to a ledge in the notch with a rocker block. An unprotected but easy slab leads from the notch to the large ledge separating the Wingate and Kayenta in a short pitch. A final very short (30') pitch leads through a double hand/finger crack corner that looks to be the path of least resistance in the Kayenta. From the top of this, scrambling leads to the summit.

The top rap anchor is at the base of the Kayenta layer, and consists of a decent bolt and a couple decent fixed stoppers. The second rap anchor is pretty much straight down, at the lowest stance on a large, slabby ledge and consists of a bolt and drilled angle I think. 2 raps with 2X 60m ropes. Apr 28, 2018