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Routes in Lower Fire Road

Can't Back Down V4 6B
Doozer Stick V0 4
Dreamshare V2 5+
Farstucker V3 6A
Might Bite V0 4
Mudhoney V1 5
Philo & Gunge V0 4
Voodoo-U V4 6B
Type: Boulder, 15 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 914 total, 9/month
Shared By: BDalhaus on Apr 16, 2009
Admins: BDalhaus, Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

If this was anywhere else, it would be perpetually caked with chalk. Fun movement, fine grained slopers, and a flat landing combine to make for a really great problem. Sit start beneath the bulge on a large, blocky two-handed jug and make a big move up to the sloping shelf above. Match the slopers, traverse right until the shelf ends, and then make the crux move up to a sidepull. Topout straight up on slopers.

Location

On the downhill side of the Voodoo Boulder. See the . Downclimb off to the right.

Protection

Pad and maybe a spotter

Photos

Jake Perry
Concord, NH
  V4
Jake Perry   Concord, NH
  V4
Footage of this great problem at 2:56
youtu.be/nRX6hnMhZsU?t=2m56s
This problem basically taught me how to heel hook, interestingly enough, when I went back out to do it again I found easier beta without the heel hook. Dec 22, 2015
Alec Woolley
Nottingham, NH
  V4
Alec Woolley   Nottingham, NH
  V4
I was wondering why all the holds were pristinely clean when I went, ha. Definitely agree with the other line being climbed before, it was just too nice not to have been. Recorded a clip of it and might throw the name Voodoo-Who? onto it for the hell of it. Apr 29, 2015
Jake Perry
Concord, NH
  V4
Jake Perry   Concord, NH
  V4
Alec, I don't think that variation has a name yet, but I bet it's been climbed before. You might as well call it Voodoo-U-Too haha.

Anyways, I went to check this climb out yesterday and it's awesome, I didn't send (couldn't get that crux throw to the sidepull) but I had to clean up quite a lot moss on some of the holds higher up. Definitely going to be working this problem again sometime.

Also, careful when topping out, there's a loose chunk of rock at the top that looks like a good hold, but is really just a piece that will slide off if you grab it.

I looked around this boulder more and it looks like there might be potential for a pretty hard, slabby, slopey route just to the left of this, between the two trees. The landing is pretty bad though. Apr 29, 2015
Alec Woolley
Nottingham, NH
  V4
Alec Woolley   Nottingham, NH
  V4
This climb is definitely worth seeking out. Very fun moves. I also went to higher left sloper from the rail and then straight up the middle to top out for a fun variation. Don't know if that has its own name. Apr 28, 2015