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Routes in Bob's Rocking Chair

Allergic Reaction T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Blind Man's Glasses T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hippies Anonymous T,S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jointed Venture T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Neanderthal or Not at All T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Squash Rocker T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 25 ft
FA: B. Crammer, H. Armantrout 1983
Page Views: 106 total, 1/month
Shared By: grk10vq on Apr 15, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

This is a good route to practice fiddling with gear on. Start by clambering up a few blocks using jams, smears and the occasional shallow edge. Climb through flakes following the most profound crack passing both good and marginal placements. Continue on this until the crack dies out. Slope, smear, then insecurely rock your way left onto a large ledge to gain the anchor.

This route is short and almost more work than its worth. The crux sits high and the protection is a bit hard to place. Shaky gear, mixed with insecure stances keeps this line just that, a jointed venture.

Location

This route lies on the small crag north of Extreme Unction. It sits directly right of Squash Rocker and starts in the crack splitting the three stacked blocks.

Protection

All gear to a set of hangers. Stoppers, slings, and cams from .2 - #2 bd. At the time of this writing there were two quick links on a two bolt anchor allowing a rap, otherwise perform the half-heinous walk off.

Photos

Boissal
Small Lake, UT
  5.9-
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
  5.9-
Harder than it looks, it's easy to get dragged on the face to the right by pro opportunities. Staying in the crack and the left face is harder. A bit thin in places.
One quicklink left on the anchor.
Bring a spider stick. Aug 31, 2009