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Daisy Cutter

5.7, Sport, 60 ft,  Avg: 2.6 from 112 votes
FA: Eric Horst
W Virginia > New River Gorge > New River Gorge… > Bubba City > Beer Wall
Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS Details

Description

This route begins in a chimney..crosses over an awkward (creepy) gap to a large flake...then up less than vertical rock to the top. Can be pretty committing for the 5.7 leader.

Location

Beer Wall, Bubba City

Protection

5 bolts and bolted anchors.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Up the chimney then left on to the ledge and over.
[Hide Photo] Up the chimney then left on to the ledge and over.
Daisy Cutter Route
[Hide Photo] Daisy Cutter Route

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Andrew G
San Diego, CA
  5.7+
[Hide Comment] This would definitely be heady for someone who didn't feel solid at 5.7. Some of the bolt placements are less than stellar. Definitely some novel/interesting movement though for a sport route. Jul 13, 2015
Benandstuff
Winston-Salem, NC
 
[Hide Comment] This route was really weird. I don't know how chimneys are usually bolted (if at all) but the bolts here were really awkward to get to sometimes. The bolts at the top also leave you an un-fun fall onto the left ledges or right face if you can't make the clips. My butt (which is currently purple) knows from experience.

That said, there are some great moves on this route. If this is your first chimney, maybe sit out until you get a toprope. Aug 17, 2015
Chris Whisenhunt
Fayetteville, WV
  5.7
[Hide Comment] Welcome to Bubba City, the worst crag at the New. Aug 17, 2015
Jake Jones
Richmond, VA
 
[Hide Comment] Except for really classic routes like King of Swing @ Kingfish and The Decameron @ Tattoo, I'd have to agree. One of the reasons is because it gets mobbed because of the quantity of moderates (at places like Tattoo and Beer Wall, etc). Generally speaking though, if you want to NOT have to pluck the gems out of a bunch of average or worse routes, don't go to Bubba City. Aug 18, 2015
Stephen Montgomery
Washington DC
 
[Hide Comment] As a gym rat, I look back on my lead of this route with great memories. It is super fun but dear god was i terrified having never done a chimney. Dec 2, 2015
Johnathan C
Missouri
 
[Hide Comment] Cool route, but like the others say, the bolt placement is pretty bad and often feels unsafe. Especially the anchor. I mean, whoever set that up is a monster because it's really ran out from the next bolt below and leaves you exposed to a pretty painful fall -- there is no where comfortable to place your feet unless you're over 6 feet tall and can reach the anchors from the only realistic place to hang from. I had to hang there for about ten minutes to get some psyche up to lunge to the ledge above the anchors and hang from there (no feet except some very un-solid smearing) while I clipped.

I just think this kind of unnecessarily run out bolting is irresponsible. All that being said, it was still a fun route. Jul 18, 2016
Dave Klar
youngstown ohio
[Hide Comment] Pretty stoked I did this one but it was committing! Told my belayer i was scared haha Jan 28, 2018
Kathleen Thompson
Richmond, VA
 
[Hide Comment] Interesting route, but potential for nasty ledge falls definitely made for a slightly scary warm-up climb. Jul 14, 2018