Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Eric Horst
Page Views: 3,939 total · 32/month
Shared By: T G Daniel on Apr 15, 2009
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd Raine, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


110 Opinions

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Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS Details

Description

This route begins in a chimney..crosses over an awkward (creepy) gap to a large flake...then up less than vertical rock to the top. Can be pretty committing for the 5.7 leader.

Location

Beer Wall, Bubba City

Protection

5 bolts and bolted anchors.

Photos

Andrew G
San Diego, CA
  5.7+
Andrew G   San Diego, CA
  5.7+
This would definitely be heady for someone who didn't feel solid at 5.7. Some of the bolt placements are less than stellar. Definitely some novel/interesting movement though for a sport route. Jul 13, 2015
Benandstuff
Winston-Salem, NC
 
Benandstuff   Winston-Salem, NC
 
This route was really weird. I don't know how chimneys are usually bolted (if at all) but the bolts here were really awkward to get to sometimes. The bolts at the top also leave you an un-fun fall onto the left ledges or right face if you can't make the clips. My butt (which is currently purple) knows from experience.

That said, there are some great moves on this route. If this is your first chimney, maybe sit out until you get a toprope. Aug 17, 2015
Chris Whisenhunt
Fayetteville, WV
  5.7
Chris Whisenhunt   Fayetteville, WV  
  5.7
Welcome to Bubba City, the worst crag at the New. Aug 17, 2015
Jake Jones
Richmond, VA
 
Jake Jones   Richmond, VA  
 
Except for really classic routes like King of Swing @ Kingfish and The Decameron @ Tattoo, I'd have to agree. One of the reasons is because it gets mobbed because of the quantity of moderates (at places like Tattoo and Beer Wall, etc). Generally speaking though, if you want to NOT have to pluck the gems out of a bunch of average or worse routes, don't go to Bubba City. Aug 18, 2015
Stephen Montgomery
Washington DC
 
Stephen Montgomery   Washington DC
 
As a gym rat, I look back on my lead of this route with great memories. It is super fun but dear god was i terrified having never done a chimney. Dec 2, 2015
Johnathan C
Missouri
 
Johnathan C   Missouri
 
Cool route, but like the others say, the bolt placement is pretty bad and often feels unsafe. Especially the anchor. I mean, whoever set that up is a monster because it's really ran out from the next bolt below and leaves you exposed to a pretty painful fall -- there is no where comfortable to place your feet unless you're over 6 feet tall and can reach the anchors from the only realistic place to hang from. I had to hang there for about ten minutes to get some psyche up to lunge to the ledge above the anchors and hang from there (no feet except some very un-solid smearing) while I clipped.

I just think this kind of unnecessarily run out bolting is irresponsible. All that being said, it was still a fun route. Jul 18, 2016
Dave Klar
youngstown ohio
Dave Klar   youngstown ohio
Pretty stoked I did this one but it was committing! Told my belayer i was scared haha Jan 28, 2018
Kathleen Thompson
Richmond, VA
 
Kathleen Thompson   Richmond, VA
 
Interesting route, but potential for nasty ledge falls definitely made for a slightly scary warm-up climb. Jul 14, 2018