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Routes in Beer Wall

A Pound of Prevention T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Beer Wench S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Bubbaweiser S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Celebration Ale S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cerveza Verde S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Cirrhosis of the Leader S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Daisy Cutter S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Delerium Tremors S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Doo-Wah Woof T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Fred Sandstone Flake T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gilded Otter S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Micro Brew S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
My Sister Makes Cluster Bombs S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Near Beer S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Spatenweiss S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
St. Pauli Girl S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Thank God I'm Bubbafied! T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Werewolf T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Eric Horst
Page Views: 3,004 total, 29/month
Shared By: T G Daniel on Apr 15, 2009
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

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Writing in chalk Details

Description

This route begins in a chimney..crosses over an awkward (creepy) gap to a large flake...then up less than vertical rock to the top. Can be pretty committing for the 5.7 leader.

Location

Beer Wall, Bubba City

Protection

5 bolts and bolted anchors.

Photos

Johnathan C
Missouri
 
Johnathan C   Missouri
 
Cool route, but like the others say, the bolt placement is pretty bad and often feels unsafe. Especially the anchor. I mean, whoever set that up is a monster because it's really ran out from the next bolt below and leaves you exposed to a pretty painful fall -- there is no where comfortable to place your feet unless you're over 6 feet tall and can reach the anchors from the only realistic place to hang from. I had to hang there for about ten minutes to get some psyche up to lunge to the ledge above the anchors and hang from there (no feet except some very un-solid smearing) while I clipped.

I just think this kind of unnecessarily run out bolting is irresponsible. All that being said, it was still a fun route. Jul 18, 2016
Stephenmontgomery
Maryland
 
Stephenmontgomery   Maryland
 
As a gym rat, I look back on my lead of this route with great memories. It is super fun but dear god was i terrified having never done a chimney. Dec 2, 2015
Jake Jones
Richmond, VA
 
Jake Jones   Richmond, VA  
 
Except for really classic routes like King of Swing @ Kingfish and The Decameron @ Tattoo, I'd have to agree. One of the reasons is because it gets mobbed because of the quantity of moderates (at places like Tattoo and Beer Wall, etc). Generally speaking though, if you want to NOT have to pluck the gems out of a bunch of average or worse routes, don't go to Bubba City. Aug 18, 2015
Chris Whisenhunt
Fayetteville, WV
  5.7
Chris Whisenhunt   Fayetteville, WV  
  5.7
Welcome to Bubba City, the worst crag at the New. Aug 17, 2015
Benandstuff
Winston-Salem, NC
 
Benandstuff   Winston-Salem, NC
 
This route was really weird. I don't know how chimneys are usually bolted (if at all) but the bolts here were really awkward to get to sometimes. The bolts at the top also leave you an un-fun fall onto the left ledges or right face if you can't make the clips. My butt (which is currently purple) knows from experience.

That said, there are some great moves on this route. If this is your first chimney, maybe sit out until you get a toprope. Aug 17, 2015
Andrew G
Silver Spring, MD
  5.7+
Andrew G   Silver Spring, MD
  5.7+
This would definitely be heady for someone who didn't feel solid at 5.7. Some of the bolt placements are less than stellar. Definitely some novel/interesting movement though for a sport route. Jul 13, 2015